Upgrading my Plusnet Accoun to wirelsee

Discussion in 'Broadband' started by tim....., Aug 26, 2015.

  1. tim.....

    Woody Guest

    I cured the problem by getting some thin flat ethernet cable - about
    6mm wide and (IMSMC) less than 1mm think and stuck round the edge of
    the carpet, under the skirting where I could. Being so thin it easily
    goes on top of the carpet under the brass-look strip across door. Not
    expensive and works a treat.
     
    Woody, Aug 27, 2015
    #21
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  2. tim.....

    tim..... Guest



    Oh :)
     
    tim....., Aug 27, 2015
    #22
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  3. tim.....

    Tim+ Guest

    Oops. Should have added that this is for FTTC broadband, not normal ADSL.

    TIM
     
    Tim+, Aug 27, 2015
    #23
  4. tim.....

    NY Guest

    Maybe a good idea to keep the router that the ISP supplies so you can get it
    out of the cupboard and use it in place of your own router if you happen to
    get a problem. That kills two bird with one stone: it means that tech
    support can talk you through any tests and reconfiguration on equipment that
    you know; and it eliminates both routers as being faulty if the fault
    affects both of them.
     
    NY, Aug 27, 2015
    #24
  5. tim.....

    PeeGee Guest

    If it is a filtered strip, it will filter out the signals!!


    --
    PeeGee

    "Nothing should be able to load itself onto a computer without the
    knowledge or consent of the computer user. Software should also be able
    to be removed from a computer easily."
    Peter Cullen, Microsoft Chief Privacy Strategist (Computing 18 Aug 05)
     
    PeeGee, Aug 27, 2015
    #25
  6. It takes 20ft of wet bushes to stop mine. It's dry today, and I have
    5.5mbits; a couple of days ago I only had 1...

    Must do that cable!

    Andy
     
    Vir Campestris, Aug 27, 2015
    #26
  7. tim.....

    Phil W Lee Guest

    Cinder blocks (common for buildings constructed in the 50s, even for
    internal walls) are an extremely effective barrier to WiFi.
    It's not just cities - any area of dense housing now suffers from
    congestion of the 2.4GHz band. I'm in a village, and I can see over a
    dozen SSIDs from my tablet, mostly on channels 1, 3, 6 and 11.
    The first thing I've done in both this house and the last is install
    ethernet cabling (Cat5 in the last, Cat6 in this one). It's not
    difficult if you are able bodied, and by flood-wiring the place to
    start with, you can always add switches where necessary if more
    connections are needed in any particular room that you have provided
    for at the outset.
    As long as you do it before you decorate (and who doesn't decorate
    after moving in anyway?) it can be very unobtrusive.
    Several benefits apart from the better bandwidth - you can't run power
    over WiFi, and it means that you can add an additional WiFi access
    point in any room which has a poor signal from your main access point
    or router (these may overlap, as you can easily get PoE access
    points).

    If you really want to be future proof, run the Cat6 in ducting, so you
    can upgrade to fibre later - who knows what we'll need in 20 years
    time?

    For me, WiFi is strictly for portable devices that don't have any
    alternative, because if you can use wired ethernet, it is always
    superior.
     
    Phil W Lee, Aug 28, 2015
    #27
  8. tim.....

    Phil W Lee Guest

    Billion BiPAC 8800NL recommendation seconded. It's also been sold by
    BT, so Openreach can hardly object to it's use if you end up needing
    an engineer visit.
    I do still have the extra box that OR supplied when VDSL was
    installed, and I think I even used if for a week or so - if it had run
    any hotter something would have melted. The Billion, by contrast,
    emits no detectable heat at all, at least without instruments to check
    it. That bodes well for both reliability and efficiency.
     
    Phil W Lee, Aug 28, 2015
    #28
  9. tim.....

    Graham J Guest

    I absolutely agree with that.

    Where I install networks for businesses, I fit ducting. This can be
    done in a house if it's a room used as an office - it is very smart but
    does make the room look more like a lab or workshop.
    [/QUOTE]
     
    Graham J, Aug 28, 2015
    #29
  10. tim.....

    Martin Brown Guest

    But if you have only got some prehistoric kit then they will almost
    certainly send you a new one for free if the old one "develops" a fault
    or drops off their supported list. That's what happened to me with
    EE/Orange/Wanadoo (an indication here of name changes @ constant ISP).
    If you tell them just how old your router/modem is I expect they will
    happily send you a new one for free. Worked for me with EE. Although the
    situation was different - they wanted me to use their provided modem so
    they could obtain diagnostics for am imterittent line fault.
    You will get radio hams telling you it is the spawn of satan but unless
    you live next door to a keen arc welder it works very well indeed and is
    a lot less hassle than running ethernet cables through the house.

    I have done both.
    Almost certainly a bad idea. May not work at all if plugged into an
    extension with RF and surge suppression fitted as most PC & Hifi
    extension adaptors are.

    Plugged directly into a ring main socket is the best way to use them.
     
    Martin Brown, Aug 28, 2015
    #30
  11. tim.....

    Martin Brown Guest

    I'll take your word for it but I'd only expect it to be a big problem if
    the cinder block walls were damp.
    In my village there are way more SSIDs than there are houses thanks to
    BTFON and other parasitic offerings sat on numpties routers. I have
    persuaded neighbours to use a sequential pattern of channels so there is
    a decent distance between all those on the same channel.

    When we started out every BT router was hogging channel 11 and the folk
    in the middle of hte village were seeing bad congestion issues. Easily
    fixed by changing to a simple pattern of cooperative frequency
    allocation. Or move up to the uncongested 5GHz band which is still
    fairly uncluttered.
    You can do it but it is overkill unless you spend all your time copying
    large disks across the network as your main pastime.
    I don't disagree that performance wise wired will win, but provided the
    Wifi is fast enough for all reasonable uses it is a *lot* easier.

    In a heavily congested area there might be a problem but installing vast
    lengths of hidden cat5 or cat6 cabling isn't my idea of fun.

    I have done it too many times in the past and view Wifi as plenty good
    enough for most consumer use - even for video streaming.
     
    Martin Brown, Aug 28, 2015
    #31
  12. tim.....

    Woody Guest

    Well, not always.

    I tried a pair by plugging it into a socket next to my computer desk
    and the other end into a socket next to the router in the next room -
    about 11ft linear distance but about 20ft of ring. No way would it
    work. I then put it into a socket just across the room but a good
    distance around the ring and it worked perfectly.

    Why? The first socket I used was the first one out from the fusebox
    (with meter right behind it) on the distant side of the ring from the
    router. The second socket I tried was the second out from the power
    box but on the near side of the ring to the router, the router is/was
    the fourth on the same side. I can only assume that the RF was being
    lost in the power box.

    Anyway, as I have already said, I got a very thin ethernet cable and
    ran it round the edge of the carpet - worked a treat and all but
    invisible.
     
    Woody, Aug 28, 2015
    #32
  13. This is exactly what I've done. My original kit of two little boxes
    and two power supplies is stored safely away in my junkroom, while a
    single neat box replaces them. However I've noticed that a lot of
    those Openreach/Huawei HG612 modems seem to find their way onto Ebay,
    so not everybody thinks the same way.

    Rod.
     
    Roderick Stewart, Aug 28, 2015
    #33
  14. On Fri, 28 Aug 2015 08:47:06 +0100, Martin Brown

    [re powerline ethernet adaptors]
    When plugged into an extension they usually do work, but at a lower
    data rate. The well known brands come with a software utility to
    monitor the behaviour of the network, so it's easy to experiment with
    this. The best performance is always obtained by plugging them
    directly into the wall, just as it says in the instructions, which is
    why it's probably best to get the ones with pass-through connectors
    for the mains power, unless you have lots of spare wall sockets.

    Rod.
     
    Roderick Stewart, Aug 28, 2015
    #34
  15. tim.....

    tim..... Guest

    a quid from the pound shop!

    will it be filtered?

    tim
     
    tim....., Aug 28, 2015
    #35
  16. tim.....

    tim..... Guest

    not only do I not have spare sockets

    I don't have space between the wall and my desk [1] to plug something into
    the first thing I plug in :

    tim

    [1] If I were to move the desk 3 inches right, the door into the room
    wouldn't open
     
    tim....., Aug 28, 2015
    #36
  17. tim.....

    Martin Brown Guest

    Probably not but the conductors might be a bit thin to carry RF well!
     
    Martin Brown, Aug 28, 2015
    #37
  18. tim.....

    tim..... Guest

    I don't have any hopes for it, that's why I don't think I can use it

    tim
     
    tim....., Aug 28, 2015
    #38
  19. tim.....

    Phil W Lee Guest

    Will it even meet British standards?
    At a quid, I'd check carefully - many don't.
     
    Phil W Lee, Aug 28, 2015
    #39
  20. tim.....

    Phil W Lee Guest

    It doesn't have to.
    There are ducting designs to get around this, even extending to some
    quite decorative skirting board, crown moulding, and architrave ones.
    As long as the original skirting and architrave is not taller/wider
    than the one with ducting in it, it's a straight-forward swap. It's
    not as flexible as the dado trunking that you'd use in a lab or
    office, because it's not as big. But the full scale dado trunking has
    mains power AND comms, separated by the height of a standard socket
    back box, and the ability to insert additional sockets for either
    power or comms at any point. For almost any domestic use, that is
    severe overkill (says me, who installed it in his home office <g>).
    The only thing you lose (at worst) with the skirting ones is a bit at
    the corner, to allow for a curve instead of a kink.
    So it seems that even the manufacturers of such things are recognising
    the need in the domestic market.

    Even if you don't want to pay the extra to get the prefab stuff, you
    can always run a router (of the DIY or woodworking variety, pronounced
    rowter instead of rooter) along the back of all but the slimmest
    skirting to make a decent duct.

    Of course, if you want to get fancy, you can rebate it into the
    plaster - I've done that too, where it was convenient (the plaster was
    a mess, and needed redoing anyway). That's my excuse and I'm sticking
    to it :)
     
    Phil W Lee, Aug 28, 2015
    #40
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