Complicated Telephone problem

Discussion in 'Broadband' started by naza, Apr 3, 2008.

  1. naza

    naza Guest

    A mate of mine had been having problems ever since he got his
    broadband. The ISP send out a new router and his sync was 1700kbps
    before hand and when he tried with the new router it increase t 3mbps.
    So slight issue with the router but based upon his 500m distance from
    exchange and the fact the the line is actaully 900m long his isp (sky)
    say the line should hand 17mbps. Its not even reaching 8mbps. Anyway,
    so i tired it at the test socket, as the router had been restarted
    many times at an extension socket, and got 4.6- 4.9mbps sync. My first
    instinct was the internal wiring is faulty and rip out the lot and
    replace it with cat5. But when i put the faceplate back on and tested
    it at the same extension it was at the same speed as the test socket.
    Plugging it in the master socket, so on the faceplate however gives a
    rate of 1.6mbps.
    I thought they may have used alarm cable and a Capacitance issue might
    be the problem, it may well cause this sort of problem.However he
    cable looks like twisted pair telephone cable. Only difference that I
    know is that alarm cable normally has 3 pairs and the insulators of
    the pairs are solid.
    Can see any obvious sources of EMI, no CFL lighting. The house is
    plagued with spot lights though , i am not sure if the give of
    interference, otherwise the transformers I don't believe are close by
    to the telephone cable.
    Any Ideas on what could be the problem. I have ordered a filtered
    faceplate anyway(XTE-2005) so that I can run a cat5 length to the
    dedicated extension for ADSL but any other ideas.
     
    naza, Apr 3, 2008
    #1
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  2. naza

    Graham. Guest

    Nothing unduly complicated about this IMHO, and you have the
    ideal solution in the final paragraph.
    While you are waiting for the filtered faceplate, why not plug
    an ordinary filter dongle into the test socket and plug the existing
    faceplate into its PSTN port, messy, but it works just as well.
    As you are running a CAT5 why not consider putting the router next to
    the NTE5 and connect via Ethernet, or just use wi-fi.
     
    Graham., Apr 3, 2008
    #2
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  3. Or use Homeplugs ..
     
    stillnobodyhome, Apr 3, 2008
    #3
  4. naza

    ato_zee Guest

    I take it that the 4.6 - 4.9 sync at the test socket is the best you
    can get, and as soon as you connect to the extension socket
    the speed drops??????
    How many devices, extension phones, caller ID boxes, fax
    machines, extra ringers, alarm system, etc are on the phone
    side.
    I have found that the lower the impedance on the phone
    side the slower the ADSL connection.
    Once you get down to a few hundred ohms it's down
    to a crawl.
    So unhook the phones leg stuff, and add it back item
    by item, while monitoring the ADSL sync speed, bearing
    in mind it is slow to repond.
    Sure your distances are correct?
    Lines don't always go by the obvious and shortest route.
    Not common but some cowboy installers can wire
    twisted pair with split pairs, one wire from one pair,
    second wire from another pair.
    If the floodlights are sodium or mercury discharge,
    potential problems, but it should be obvious,
    you just switch them on and off, should show
    up if they are affecting the situation.
     
    ato_zee, Apr 3, 2008
    #4
  5. naza

    naza Guest

    I take it that the 4.6 - 4.9 sync at the test socket is the best you
    Not Quite. That's what I thought at first but after unplugging the
    faceplate and along with it the extensions while I tested at the test
    socket, when I plugged it back in the extensions it connected at full
    speed, but yet again the speed is decreasing slowly again. From 4.6 to
    4.3.
    There are only two phones on the line.
    Distances as the crow flies is 500M and Sky confirmed that also
    mentioning that the cable length is 900m. Could not make any comment
    on the validity.
    Tested it in the day and so lighting was not really a problem
     
    naza, Apr 3, 2008
    #5
  6. naza

    JohnW Guest

    naza, in article <12ad86bb-16df-431a-88a7-
    >, says...
    Look in the back of the master socket. There should only be
    the incoming wires connected to the screw terminals. If there
    had been an old alarm installation, the wire could have been
    connected directly to the drop-wire terminals so the circuit
    wasn't broken if the front panel was removed. Alternatively,
    someone may have had a short extension wire and so connected
    this to the screw terminals. Do you have Sky and did they
    install a phone socket for the box?

    If this is OK, check the drop wire route. There may be
    another junction box into which someone has incorrectly wired
    an extension cable. Check the route is well away from things
    like fluorescents and other sources of interference. Check
    there are no joints in this wire, other than in junction
    boxes, and that the wire isn't physically damaged - a ladder
    could have removed some insulation allowing the ingress of
    water. If there is a problem with the drop wire it is an
    Openreach job to fix.

    Remove all the extension wiring to "pin3" - the ring wire. If
    any phone needs it, use a cheap plug-in filter or adapter to
    provide the ring capacitor at the slave socket.

    Listen for interference in the MW band of an AM radio, tuned
    off-station.

    Is there any nose audible on the phone line, using the quiet
    line test?
     
    JohnW, Apr 4, 2008
    #6
  7. naza

    naza Guest

    There was never an alarm system in the house and the back of the
    master socket looked fine. Did not poke around in there too much. The
    house was done up recently, which including a whole electrical re-
    writing and new telephone cabling, which was not done by the
    electrician. There was already a socket for the Sky box, so Sky did
    not do anything.
    I have checked interference for the obvious sources of interference
    but not walked round with a radio. As for the route of the drop wire
    there is a problem. The cable runs from the pole to the fascia of the
    house, then runs down into the porch on the outside wall. Into the
    Porch and into a little Cupboard where the NTE is. Inside the cupboard
    I can see the route of the cable. But I am certain there is a junction
    box as the cable running to the NTE is not the drop wire but there is
    cladding on the porch, so I cant find the junction box or the drop
    wire at that point. The cladding looks like its glued on but it was
    done by the previous owner, so don't know the specifics.
    Its already running off just the AB cables
    Phone line is totally silent.
     
    naza, Apr 4, 2008
    #7
  8. naza

    JohnW Guest

    naza, in article <44a1d959-604a-4ce1-8907-a9bfb696efb3
    @p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, says...

    Having eliminated the obvious...

    You appear to have eliminated all the private home telephone
    wiring by connecting your modem/router directly into the
    master's test socket (what BT to RJ11 converter did you use?)
    It this true? Was the modem/router then located next to the
    master socket and was the cable between the two short?

    What modem/router are you using (or is it a USB one?) and does
    its connection wire, (the RJ11 one) appear to be a flat cable,
    like most? If so, have you coiled up any surplus neatly, away
    from all other wires?

    I've improved several installations that had this wire simply
    pushed down the back of the computer or laying across other
    cables. Remember this is carrying the low-level ADSL signal
    and, being typically untwisted, is prone to pick up any noise
    that is going around as normal mode noise (I.e. unbalanced).
    You can get versions of this cable that is twisted, e.g.
    http://tinyurl.com/2dchpq (but do you need 20m...) I've not
    used this particular one but was thinking of getting some of
    this cable to make shorter versions to replace the cheap, flat
    types that are typically shipped with ADSL modems.
     
    JohnW, Apr 4, 2008
    #8
  9. naza

    naza Guest

    I plugged it in with one of his filters first then I did a direct
    connection from the modem to test socket.
    Cable length is about 1M directly to the test socket.

    It a router, which was connected to PC at the time of testing via
    ethernet. Its an Wireless router, Netgear DG834GT, known to be fully
    working, it was my own one. The cable was a flat and was running
    fairly straight.
    I may well looking into that as well.
     
    naza, Apr 4, 2008
    #9
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