Is this how you wire the RJ45 female wall mount connectors?

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 21:42:45 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to
>about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should
>have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female
>jacks without the tool.

$3 for that little tool? SCZ Electronics has a pile of them at the
counter for $1/ea. I have one on my keychain.

This might also help:
<http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=401989&section=27314>
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkXmIbKL0X8>

>But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it
>would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool.

Keep the tool. It might be handy if you decide to do structured
wiring, where almost everything is connected via a Type 110 connection
block. It's also easier to use than the small plastic one included
with the jacks.

More such tools:
<http://ftaelectronics.ca/home/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=367>

>> You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push
>> hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.
>
>Now you tell me!

There's plenty on the internet on how to do it. For example:
<http://academy.delmar.edu/Courses/ITNW2313/icat5.htm>
Note that the excess wires are clipped off AFTER the covers are placed
over the RJ45 jack. Otherwise, methinks it's obvious that you're not
going to cut off the excess wires with the tool unless it's resting
against an anvil to help with the cutting. That's available in Type
66 and 110 blocks, but not on an RJ45 jack.

>The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the
>wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of
>the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to
>get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside
>wall. Yuck.)

Find a mouse. Punch a mouse size hole in the wall at both the entry
and exit points. Tie a string to the mouse's tail. Insert mouse into
wall. Wait until the mouse exits through the other hold. If mouse
refuses to exit, add peanut butter to something near the exit hole.
When mouse is through, untie string, and release mouse. Use string to
pull through a pull rope.

I've actually done this when running cable through underground
conduit. It works but requires a cooperative mouse and some patience.


--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On 12/30/2011 1:42 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 09:25:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> Everything looks ok to me except the push on tool.
>
> I'm amazed (I guess I shouldn't be) that you are spot on right. You
> already know that which confused me without me even saying it!
>
>> It's really designed for punching down wires onto a Type 66
>> or Type 110 telco block.
>
> That's why it felt like overkill and didn't work to cut the wires!
>
> (I didn't realize this until you just said it - but something didn't feel
> right when I tried to understand the tool, what with it's adjustable
> 'impact settings' and the wire cutter that didn't cut the wires!)
>
>> The punch down tool includes an impact mechanism that is used
>> with the Type 66 tip to cut off the wire ends against the base
>> of the Type 66 block.
>
> Until you said that, I couldn't figure out 'why' there was an adjustable
> impact settings. It didn't seem to make sense for what I was using it
> for. I realize now it's the wrong tool!
>
>> The Type 110 is the same as the RJ45 jack, so everyone logically assumes
>> that you should use the same tool and the same technique. Nope.
>
> I asked at Home Depot what tool to use - and this is the $20 tool the guy
> gave me. I don't blame him (he didn't have to help me) ... but I do thank
> you for explaining why it just felt wrong while I was using it.
>
> Don't get me wrong, it worked (sort of, as it didn't cut the wires). It
> just didn't feel like it was the right tool for the right job at the time
> of using it. Now I know why.
>
>
>> The impact mechanism in the tool ... might break the more fragile
>> RJ45 jack.
>
> It did feel like it was pounding in the wires!
>
>> In the retail box with the RJ45 jack is usually a blue
>> plastic push-on tool, which is more suitable
>
> I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to
> about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should
> have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female
> jacks without the tool.
>
> But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it
> would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool.
>
> My mistake. Lesson learned. I'm glad you told me (and anyone who reads
> this in the future will be forewarned).
>
>> You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push
>> hard enough to engage the impact mechanism.
>
> Now you tell me!
>
> Actually, all your advice will still help me because I plan on adding an
> upstairs bedroom to my office wall plate.
>
> The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the
> wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of
> the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to
> get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside
> wall. Yuck.)

it was the proper tool. those jacks are just like a 110 block and have
a ledge for the knife to cut against. It just wasn't being used
properly with a proper backing.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 12/30/2011 1:55 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:
>> This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may
>> be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it
>> easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit.
>
> Now you tell me!
>
> Actually, it's a lesson learned for me. NEXT time (like when I do the
> upstairs bedroom), I'll locate the studs and cut the opening first!
>
> BTW, the little orange box didn't come with a template - so I reversed it
> and poked four little holes in the wallboard with a sharp-tipped dart to
> mark the corners.
>
> I cut the wallboard with a utility knife - but I messed it up (and almost
> cut into the electrical wire which I didn't know what there).
>
> Do you guys use a 'punch' of sorts to cut out the wallboard rectangle?

personally, i just make a big enough hole for the back of the jacks, and
then use screw in sheetrock anchors to mount the plate. No box frame
needed.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 15:25:18 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> Note that the excess wires are clipped off AFTER the covers are placed
> over the RJ45 jack. Otherwise, methinks it's obvious that you're not
> going to cut off the excess wires with the tool unless it's resting
> against an anvil

Hi Jeff,

That is obvious ... um ... er ... but only after it's obvious.

For example, I hadn't thought about it ... and I had expected the tool to
do the snipping (since it had a knife blade). Of course, the tool didn't
snip (because it's the wrong tool for that job).

So I twisted it off (without thinking of what you just said).

So, NEXT TIME, I 'will' put the cover on before twisting the leads off.

Thanks for the tip. Anyone reading this will have a head start on me
(which is a good thing)!

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 15:25:18 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> I've actually done this when running cable through underground conduit.
> It works but requires a cooperative mouse and some patience.

It almost sounds serious!

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:05:59 -0800, Steve Barker wrote:

> It just wasn't being used
> properly with a proper backing.

Well, I 'was' on soft carpet. Next time, I'd put a board under me when
snipping it. You don't have much leeway on surfaces as the wire length is
only protruding so much from the wall and you can't wire ahead of time.

On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 10:27:54 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:
> Is there a rule for which way the RJ45 connector goes in
> (ie with the little keystone clip thing on top or bottom?)
> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif

Nobody addressed this to my knowledge so can I 'assume' it doesn't matter
which way the keystone goes (up or down)?

Without any convention to go by, I put the clip-side up because I assumed
my thumb would be on top when removing the cable.

But I don't know if there is a 'convention' like there is for electrical
outlets of the ground being on the bottom.

On Fri, 6 Jan 2012 15:41:38 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 10:27:54 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:
>> Is there a rule for which way the RJ45 connector goes in
>> (ie with the little keystone clip thing on top or bottom?)
>> http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248934.gif
>
>Nobody addressed this to my knowledge so can I 'assume' it doesn't matter
>which way the keystone goes (up or down)?

There's no standard, but in general, I use clip side DOWN. That has
no benefits for wall jacks that have plugs installed doing something
useful. However, if the wall jack is unused, it's best to have the
gold connections on the TOP of the jack, so that dirt, dust, crud,
filth, and liquids do not land and accumulate on the connections. I've
had to clean out the gold wires from wall jacks that were mounted
wrong.

>Without any convention to go by, I put the clip-side up because I assumed
>my thumb would be on top when removing the cable.

If you look at the wall plates that have built in labels, the labels
would obviously go above the connector. The orientation of the RJ45
jack then becomes apparent. This is not a very good photo, but the
best I could find:
<http://www.showmecables.com/images/catalog/product/ICRDSV05AL.jpg>
Note the labels above the connectors, and the resultant jack
orientation of clip side DOWN.

>But I don't know if there is a 'convention' like there is for electrical
>outlets of the ground being on the bottom.

There is, but it's not rigid. The problem is that wall mounted jacks
are fairly well protected, so it's not really important.

The typical "muffin" surface mount box is a problem.
<http://i01.i.aliimg.com/photo/v0/225934099/surface_mount_box.jpg>
Many installers will attach these to the baseboard with the jacks
pointing UP. That makes it easy to get to the jacks, but also turns
the jack into a funnel shaped collector of debris and crud. Pointing
the connectors down makes no sense, leaving mounting it so the jacks
are on the sides as the least disgusting method of attachment.

--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 09:27:09 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> can I 'assume' it doesn't matter which way the keystone goes

> There's no standard, but in general, I use clip side DOWN.
> ... so that dirt, dust, crud, filth, ...
> ... do not land and accumulate on the connections.

Interesting perspective.

Makes a lot of sense.

Thanks for the insight Jeff, yet again.

You are the best!