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On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 07:24:35 -0500, RBM wrote:
> I would cut the opening in the wall first. You can use a low voltage > wall frame like this: > http://www.mycablemart.com/store/car...t_detail&p=885 It was my mistake not to refer to this picture: http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248809.gif In that picture, it shows I did exactly (almost) what you suggested. What I did was drill the hole in the wall down the five feet to the crawl space below - and THEN I pulled the wires through. Only after that, did I cut the opening for the wall plate as shown in the picture above. Had I cut the opening first, I would have seen that there was an electrical wire dangerously close to where I had drilled! Since that electrical wire went rigidly into a stud exactly where I had cut, had I moved the drill just an inch further up on the wall, I would have drilled right through the electrical wire! Even as it is, with my close miss, I wonder if the cat5e cable is too close to the electrical wire for safety? > I'm not sure what type of network you're setting up, with a cable "in" > and "out". There's already a whole thread on just that!  See: Does having multiple RJ45 jacks degrade the Internet signal a lot? Suffice to say it's a 'star network' which you guys recommended, where the WISP antenna outside is the WAN 'input' connection which goes to a POE and then to the broadband router. All other connections are 'outputs' in the sense that they go from the LAN output ports on the broadband router back to the wall which then feeds other portions of the house. |
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On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 09:25:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Everything looks ok to me except the push on tool. I'm amazed (I guess I shouldn't be) that you are spot on right. You already know that which confused me without me even saying it! > It's really designed for punching down wires onto a Type 66 > or Type 110 telco block. That's why it felt like overkill and didn't work to cut the wires! (I didn't realize this until you just said it - but something didn't feel right when I tried to understand the tool, what with it's adjustable 'impact settings' and the wire cutter that didn't cut the wires!) > The punch down tool includes an impact mechanism that is used > with the Type 66 tip to cut off the wire ends against the base > of the Type 66 block. Until you said that, I couldn't figure out 'why' there was an adjustable impact settings. It didn't seem to make sense for what I was using it for. I realize now it's the wrong tool! > The Type 110 is the same as the RJ45 jack, so everyone logically assumes > that you should use the same tool and the same technique. Nope. I asked at Home Depot what tool to use - and this is the $20 tool the guy gave me. I don't blame him (he didn't have to help me) ... but I do thank you for explaining why it just felt wrong while I was using it. Don't get me wrong, it worked (sort of, as it didn't cut the wires). It just didn't feel like it was the right tool for the right job at the time of using it. Now I know why. > The impact mechanism in the tool ... might break the more fragile > RJ45 jack. It did feel like it was pounding in the wires! > In the retail box with the RJ45 jack is usually a blue > plastic push-on tool, which is more suitable I saw those little tools with the jacks. They were about $5 as opposed to about $3 for each of the RJ45 female jacks. So, in hind sight, I should have bought one of the female jacks with the tool, and two of the female jacks without the tool. But, since I was buying the Home Depot-recommended $20 tool, I figured it would be extraneous to buy the jack with the plastic throw-away tool. My mistake. Lesson learned. I'm glad you told me (and anyone who reads this in the future will be forewarned). > You can also use the punch down tool if you do NOT push > hard enough to engage the impact mechanism. Now you tell me! Actually, all your advice will still help me because I plan on adding an upstairs bedroom to my office wall plate. The only problem at the moment is figuring out HOW to get up through the wall to the upstairs bedroom because the wall is about in the middle of the floor of the upstairs bedroom - so I can't (yet) figure out how to get to it (I may have to go outside and then back in down the outside wall. Yuck.) |
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On 12/30/2011 4:30 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 07:24:35 -0500, RBM wrote: >> I would cut the opening in the wall first. You can use a low voltage >> wall frame like this: >> http://www.mycablemart.com/store/car...t_detail&p=885 > > It was my mistake not to refer to this picture: > http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...mg/7248809.gif > > In that picture, it shows I did exactly (almost) what you suggested. > > What I did was drill the hole in the wall down the five feet to the crawl > space below - and THEN I pulled the wires through. Only after that, did I > cut the opening for the wall plate as shown in the picture above. > > Had I cut the opening first, I would have seen that there was an > electrical wire dangerously close to where I had drilled! > > Since that electrical wire went rigidly into a stud exactly where I had > cut, had I moved the drill just an inch further up on the wall, I would > have drilled right through the electrical wire! > > Even as it is, with my close miss, I wonder if the cat5e cable is too > close to the electrical wire for safety? > >> I'm not sure what type of network you're setting up, with a cable "in" >> and "out". > > There's already a whole thread on just that! > See: Does having multiple RJ45 jacks degrade the Internet signal a lot? > > Suffice to say it's a 'star network' which you guys recommended, where > the WISP antenna outside is the WAN 'input' connection which goes to a > POE and then to the broadband router. > > All other connections are 'outputs' in the sense that they go from the > LAN output ports on the broadband router back to the wall which then > feeds other portions of the house. > This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit. So your router is going at this location. Your wisp input is the Wan to the router, and you only have one LAN output, to the game room? |
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On Fri, 30 Dec 2011 16:51:18 -0500, RBM wrote:
> This is why you would cut the wall opening first. You can see what may > be in the path of your drill and avoid it. The opening also makes it > easier to negotiate the path of the drill bit. Now you tell me! Actually, it's a lesson learned for me. NEXT time (like when I do the upstairs bedroom), I'll locate the studs and cut the opening first! BTW, the little orange box didn't come with a template - so I reversed it and poked four little holes in the wallboard with a sharp-tipped dart to mark the corners. I cut the wallboard with a utility knife - but I messed it up (and almost cut into the electrical wire which I didn't know what there). Do you guys use a 'punch' of sorts to cut out the wallboard rectangle? |
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