William Boyd <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>WOW! the information about this device is so scarce I have no
>idea how it connects. Is it wired to the router and takes over
>the wireless part, or does it access wireless and ping out what
>the router broadcasts. How can it be called a range extender if
>it functions as a repeater.
That's what a "repeater" is!
If you have AP with a range of say, 200', and you put the
repeater at 180'... it will connect to the AP, and then *it*
has a range of 200' too, so you can put a client another 180'
farther away (putting it at 360' away from the AP with a 200'
range, or 160' beyond the distance the client would be able to
connect to the AP) and it will connect to the repeater.
Think of it this way... If your AP (which is connected via a
wire ethernet to your satellite system) is sitting in a window
facing the distant building that you want to connect to, and
that distant building has a window facing this AP, you can put a
client or a repeater in that window facing the AP, and they will
connect.
The client has to then be connected via a wired ethernet to
whatever local network you have within that distant building.
The WRE54G, however, will connect to *other* wireless clients.
Assuming you have a desktop computer that you cannot get close
to a window, you have the option of using wired eithernet to a
client in the window, or putting a wifi client interface into
the desktop and letting it connect to the repeater. Either way
will work. Of course if you have a laptop, it can have a wifi
client and can be used anywhere inside the building that allows
connection to the repeater. If the building is long and has
many walls, or if any of the walls have metal or brick in them,
then you won't be able to connect. But it is very likely that
the laptop would not connect to the AP in the other building
unless it was sitting in the window, so with the repeater you do
get a "range extender" function.
Now, that said... a WRT54GS functions far better, and costs
perhaps same. A WRT54G functions much better, and costs much
less. In fact, in most instances you won't be able to tell the
difference between a WRT54GS and a WRT54G. Connecting to the
Internet, either of them is faster than your Internet
connection, so you get no benefit from the WRT54GS over the
WRT54G.
Go with a WRT54G unless you have some specific reason to use
a WRE54G or a WRT54GS. (The WRT54G and WRT54GS require that you
use 3rd party firmware, but that is available at no cost and is
no more difficult to set up that the stock firmware.)
>I am Totally confused and havent the
>slightest idea if this is going to help my situation or not.
Unless you can put the client wifi unit for the distant
building's computer in that window, a repeater of some kind is
going to be essential. To use a laptop, it will be necessary
regardless.
>The satellite installation crew will be here on monday and I'm
>not sure if I can shoot the 227' from my router with the high
>gain antennas to the PCI adapter also with a high gain
>directional antenna.
Probably... *if* the high gain antenna is in the clear (as in
a window, or mounted outside) and has a short (6-15 feet max)
feedline of good quality. On the other hand, if you need a
100 foot feedline and are thinking of using typical TV 75 ohm
coax... ferget it!
>The installation crew chief threw another coal in the fire, and
>that is they cant mount the satellite on the roof if it has
>metal sheeting. Of course I am talking about a barn and I do not
>think I have ever seen a barn in the US with out a metal
>roof. There fore no barns are enhanced with Direct Way Satellite
>for internet.
I have no idea what the problem is, but I'd suspect that it is a
problem of mechanics. Maybe they aren't able to do that without
causing leaks? There is certainly no reason that a satellite
antenna won't work, electrically, from on top of a metal roof.
However... you probably don't care anyway! All it needs is a
clear shot at the satellite. It need not be high up in the air
like a TV antenna. It can actually be mounted on the ground if
there are no obstructions. What it does need is a *very* *solid*
mount! Hence the side of a building, just up high enough that it
is not a hazard for passing humans, is often the best mounting
location.
--
Floyd L. Davidson <http://web.newsguy.com/floyd_davidson>
Ukpeagvik (Barrow, Alaska)
(E-Mail Removed)
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