shelf life on cheap wireless routers?

Hi all,

It took me a while to find the right Usenet group, I think I am in the
proper place.

How do you know when the transmitter/receiver of your cheap wireless
router/switch is going bad?

I had this Netgear that was $35 and it wasn't working so well on the
wireless ports, but after installing a Belkin (shipped from home office) it
seems to have the same problem.

I could fiddle around, but, the question is, how do you know when the RF
function is going bad or dying on your unit?

Aside from intermittent drops, like what is occurring now, I guess that's
it. ???

The netgear only seemed to crap out after a 2nd RF device tried to connect
and navigate the Internet. This Belkin just seems to shit the bed for no
reason.

So, the last question; is there a good, reliable, router for my home network
for under $100?

TIA

Mr Curios

On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 09:06:39 -0400, "ng_reader"
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>How do you know when the transmitter/receiver of your cheap wireless
>router/switch is going bad?

You'll know when you can't communicate over a reasonable range. The
right question is how do you test for RF problems.

1. Substitution. Find a known working wireless router or client
radio and do some testing. For example, if your laptop radio seems
sick, then take it to a known working wireless router (i.e. coffee
shop hot spot) and do some testing. If your wireless router seems
sick, have a friend with a known working laptop test it for you.

2. Use Netstumbler on a 2nd laptop to disclose the measured S/N ratio
and signal strength numbers. High noise levels usually means
interference.

3. An expensive pile of test equipment. TX power is easy using a
dummy load and spectrum analyzer. RX sensitivity is not so easy but
doable with an 802.11b/g test source and precision attenuator. A
sloppy way to test the receiver is have it scan for nearby access
points and compare results with a known working radio.

>I had this Netgear that was $35 and it wasn't working so well on the
>wireless ports, but after installing a Belkin (shipped from home office) it
>seems to have the same problem.

Now that you've found this group, all me inform you of your
indiscretion. You didn't bother mentioning the model number of your
$35 Netgear whatever. If you're expecting sympathy, you've done the
right thing. If you want technical help, kindly disclose what problem
you are trying to solve and what hardware/software you have to work
with.

>The netgear only seemed to crap out after a 2nd RF device tried to connect
>and navigate the Internet.

"Crap out" is not terribly descriptive.

>This Belkin just seems to shit the bed for no
>reason.

Perhaps a diaper or enema would be helpful.

>So, the last question; is there a good, reliable, router for my home network
>for under $100?

Reliable, fast, cheap. Pick two.
This week, I'm partial to Linksys WRT54G with Sveasoft Alchemy
replacement firmware. About $70 before rebates. I've also had fairly
good luck with Netgear WGR614, although the radio range is not quite
as good as some others. About $50 before rebates.


--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Jeff Liebermann" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 09:06:39 -0400, "ng_reader"
> <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
> >How do you know when the transmitter/receiver of your cheap wireless
> >router/switch is going bad?
>
> You'll know when you can't communicate over a reasonable range. The
> right question is how do you test for RF problems.
>
> 1. Substitution. Find a known working wireless router or client
> radio and do some testing. For example, if your laptop radio seems
> sick, then take it to a known working wireless router (i.e. coffee
> shop hot spot) and do some testing. If your wireless router seems
> sick, have a friend with a known working laptop test it for you.
>

Well, I kinda tried that with the two units that work some of the time

> 2. Use Netstumbler on a 2nd laptop to disclose the measured S/N ratio
> and signal strength numbers. High noise levels usually means
> interference.
>
> 3. An expensive pile of test equipment. TX power is easy using a
> dummy load and spectrum analyzer. RX sensitivity is not so easy but
> doable with an 802.11b/g test source and precision attenuator. A
> sloppy way to test the receiver is have it scan for nearby access
> points and compare results with a known working radio.

I've heard tell of a magic device called an "Air Magnet" although I do not
know *how* magical

>
> >I had this Netgear that was $35 and it wasn't working so well on the
> >wireless ports, but after installing a Belkin (shipped from home office)
it
> >seems to have the same problem.
>
> Now that you've found this group, all me inform you of your
> indiscretion. You didn't bother mentioning the model number of your
> $35 Netgear whatever. If you're expecting sympathy, you've done the
> right thing. If you want technical help, kindly disclose what problem
> you are trying to solve and what hardware/software you have to work
> with.

If you want a good cry, call ME. (number not given on purpose)

The NetGear is a MR814v2
The Belkin is an FSD6231-4

To address what I might call a signal to noise ration, according to my
machine running XP Pro, the Netgear provides less noise but similarly strong
signal strength.
Additionally, the XP Pro machne is close enough to plug in via patch cable,
which *always* works.

>
> >The netgear only seemed to crap out after a 2nd RF device tried to
connect
> >and navigate the Internet.
>
> "Crap out" is not terribly descriptive.
>
> >This Belkin just seems to shit the bed for no
> >reason.
>
> Perhaps a diaper or enema would be helpful.
>
> >So, the last question; is there a good, reliable, router for my home
network
> >for under $100?
>
> Reliable, fast, cheap. Pick two.
> This week, I'm partial to Linksys WRT54G with Sveasoft Alchemy
> replacement firmware. About $70 before rebates. I've also had fairly
> good luck with Netgear WGR614, although the radio range is not quite
> as good as some others. About $50 before rebates.
>

Did I hear a birdie? cheep-cheep

Thanks for the notes, my lonsman brother.

Peace out.

>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> AE6KS 831-336-2558

<snip>
> If you want a good cry, call ME. (number not given on purpose)
>

Nevermind, I saw the snapshots.

(sorry for all the typos, my machine should have picked that up!)

> I've heard tell of a magic device called an "Air Magnet" although I do not
> know *how* magical

Air Magnet isn't exactly in the right cost bracket though to test a $35
router/ap.

You might just as well go and buy a whole load more and have a shelf
full of standby boxes for the price of Air Magnet.

David.