The other day I was doing some comparison of transfer rates (WLAN and
internet) between my various 802.11a, 802.11g, and 802.11b hardware. (I
have several, completetly physical seperate networks in the air -- for
various purposes. 802.11a for WLAN, 802.11g for media and consoles, and an
open 802.11b internet pipe using a captive portal, ect. Also have a couple
repeaters running as well.)
My "testing" of transfer rates was simple and crude: time how long it took
to transfer a 250MB file across the WLAN and do an online speed test.
Nothing "scientific" here, but I did take the effort to ensure that each
"test" was under as much similiar variables as possible. (I.e., turning
AP's and repeaters off except for the one I intended to test, re-configing
so the 802.11g and 802.11b used the same channel during the test, ect.
Basically, minimizing RFI as much as possible. In my normal setup, the
802.11g's and 802.11b's channels are seperated, but they still overlap. All
channels overlap, even channel 1 and 11. It works just fine regardless, so
I don't care. The G's and B's are for internet crap only anyways. My WLAN
pipe is A and alone in clean air.)
Anyway, while going around unplugging and re-plugging everything (many
times), I remembered about an old "Appliance Controller" that I had stored
away. One of those X10 controller deals. Fires off an X10 signal into your
house wiring, which is picked up by a module on the intented controlled
appliance. I've had the thing since the mid 1980's, along with a handful of
appliance and lamp modules. It was sold by Radio Shack for the Tandy TRS-80
Color Computers, which I used at the time. You can manually fire off X10
signals for up to four devices (on/off), but to control more than four (or
program it), you have to hook it up to Coco. (Rom pack, cable connector
between the controller and Coco's cassette port, etc).
Last time I can recall actually using the thing was in 1991. It had been
stored away for 14 years, but no reason why it shouldn't still work.
Thought it would be perfect to have a way of turning AP's and repeaters
on/off remotetly -- so pulled it out. (I wasn't motivated enough to pull
out an old Coco so I could program the thing. I would just use it as a
manual device.)
Yep, it still worked just fine. It had reseted to it's default config long
ago, of course. Housecode "A", and the four manual devices would be 1
through 4 --- so I set four appliance modules accordingly.
Then it got interesting. The A1, A3, and A4 devices worked like they
should but the A2 device would automatically turn itself back on in ~10 secs
after sending it a "turn off" signal. Ok. Thats strange. Lets try
another module. Same thing. Ok. Maybe the controller is automatically
sending the "turn on" command for A2? (Even though I didn't remember it
having that "feature".) So, I send a "turn off" command and then immiedetly
unplug the controller. Ten seconds later, yep, you guessed it -- the thing
turns back on! (I'm using just a lamp in my test.) Tried all the other
modules, and every single one of them do the exact same thing for A2. There
is nothing "intelligent" with the modules, they are simply dumb devices.
Ok, this is strange. I had to go over to a friend's house anyway, so took
the controller and a couple modules with me. Tried them over there and "A2"
doesn't get the automatic "turn-on" signal after a manual "turn-off".
Ok, now I'm motivated enough to pull out a Coco so I can get into the
controller and program the thing. So, after hunting down an RF adapter (and
a TV that actually had VHF screws, remember them? LOL), finally get into the
controller. Set the thing to a few other "Housecodes" and all the devices
work normally. "A2", however, keeps getting the automatic "turn-on" signal
though.
Conclusion: Someone out there (one of my neighbors on same transformer?) has
something using X10 that is sending an automatic "turn-on" signal after a
"turn-off" is sent with an "A2" ID. Just thought that was "interesting" and
perhaps something to consider if anyone considers those devices that allow
your home electrical wiring to be used for a LAN.
(I've since set the "Housecode" on the controller to "P" and now its all
working fine. Whoever out there that is using "A" was probably like "WTF?"
when two of their who-knows-what were turning on and off all night. I'm
assuming they have at least two devices, since the auto "turn-on" was for an
A2.)
Cheers,
Eric
(Easily amused with simple stuff.)
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