On Tue, 30 May 2006 16:55:55 -0700, "Wolfgang S. Rupprecht"
<wolfgang+(E-Mail Removed) .wsrcc.com> wrote:
>Ah, I should have mentioned. I'm not going for any speed record.
>1Mbs is fine.
No, don't go to 802.11b speeds. The slowest 802.11g speed will give
you better sensitivity, range, and reliability. Stay with OFDM.
>I'm just curious if I can expect to hit a rooftop omni
>from Mission Peak 4.3 miles away or get at it from a Fremont's Central
>Park 1.5 miles away.
Both should be possible with a proper antenna. Note that my calcs
assume that the radio goes on the roof along with the antenna to
minimize coax cable loses.
Reading between the lines, it appears that both these locations have
existing wireless installations. However you didn't disclose the
hardware and antenna types and gains. I can't do a calculation
without these. Got photos? Got inside info?
If these locations (park or peak) have the usual 2ft long omni, it has
a gain of about 7dBi. No clue on the radios. Many of these public
access points are 802.11b only and are limited to 5.5Mbits/sec
connection speed. That will limit the range somewhat due to lousy
sensitivity.
>> http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi#Link_Calculations
>Great link. Thanks for all the information!
If you find any errors, please either let me know or just fix them
yourself. The FAQ is a user supported effort.
>Ok, it looks like 6Mbps OFDM is roughly the same as 1Mbps BPSK.
>Cranking it down to 1Mbps seems to buy me very little with that radio.
Yep. That's it. 1Mbit/sec is also a problem in that the packets are
flying through the air for a longer time to send the same amount of
data. That creates a higher probability that a noise hit or
interference blast is going eat a given packet. 1Mbit/sec is not
terribly reliable because of this. The problem is that with 802.11b,
*ALL* management packets are sent at 1Mbits/sec. That guarantees lots
of loss even if you manage to get an 11Mbit/sec connection. With
802.11g, I think (not sure) that the management packets are sent at
the connection speed.
>I wouldn't have guessed that one wants to shoot for a 20db margin.
Don't guess. That's my job.
Receiver sensitivity is measured at at a BER (bit error rate) of
either 1 bit in 10^5 or 10^6 (depending on standard). One error every
million bits isn't all that bad but you wouldn't want to operate
there. Below the BER reference of 10^5, and drop in signal results in
a rather drastic decrease in error rate. Looking at the chart on my
wall, a 3dB drop in signal level will reduce the error rate to about
10^3. (It varies with different modulation types and speeds). At 1
error every 1000 bits, you're guaranteed to have an error in just
about every packet. In other words, this is a threshold effect with
10^5 or 10^6 being at the knee of the threshold.
A 3dB drop in signal is really easy to produce. It can come from
water incursion, rain, blockage, fresnel zone diffraction,
reflections, and possibly the position of the moon. Please note that
my calculations are seriously simplified and offer the *BEST* case
model. It can only get worse as errors and losses are introduced. For
example, I have yet to see a 24dBi dish that I actually can test with
a resultant gain of 24dBi. Same with the +15 to +17dBm the typical
router is suppose to belch. It's more like +13dBm on my junk test
equipment. Everyone lies, but that's ok because nobody calculates.
>The cards I was really lusting after were these:
> http://www.ubnt.com/super_range_cardbus.php4
I don't have time to tear these apart. I've only played with one for
a few minutes. However, the trend for increased power output seems to
be epidemic. I don't like it because it creates an alligator (big
mouth, small ears) which transmits far further than it can hear.
>It looks like I could buy myself another 12db on the RX side (-96dbm
>vs -84dbm) and another 9db on the tx side (24db vs 15db). That 21 db
>should be good for 3.5 doublings in distance - call it
>
>(* 2.0 2.0 2.0 1.414) 11.312 ; ~11x further
That's only true if you have a symmetrical system, where you increase
the transmit power and sensitivity on BOTH ends of the link. If only
one side of the link has a big transmitter, then there's no guarantee
that it can hear the other side.
Incidentally, the RX specs look a bit too good. I can usually get 2dB
more sensitivity by simply tweaking the BER reference level. The
numbers are very close to the noise floor of the receiver. I gotta
grind some numbers to be sure. Let's just say I'm suspicious.
>The houses are mostly stucco over chicken-wire and concrete roof tiles
>painted to look like clay.
Concrete roof tiles are like a brick wall. Hell, they *ARE* a brick
wall. Nothing goes through them.
>So it looks like the lower half-cylinder of the fresnel zone will get
>clobbered. Is this equivalent to half the signal getting lost or
>would it be worse? If it is only half the signal getting lost, what's
>another 3 db among friends?
I wish it were that easy. Fresnel Zone is a knife edge diffraction
zone. The signal hits the edge of the obstruction and is diffracted
away from the line of sight target. In extreme cases, it will setup
reinforcement and cancellation interference patterns as in Newton's
rings.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton's_rings
The important point is that it's not stable. As things move around,
the destination signal strength varies radically. You might be lucky
and find a location with a reinforcement peak, only to find it a null
when someone moves their vehicle in a midpoint parking lot.
>Concrete roof tiles, stucco building, wide eves with a 2x12 beam
>running along the end of the roof.
Concrete and chicken wire supported stucco are like a wall. Nothing
goes through. You'll need clearance and altitude. Also, don't forget
about trees. I'm sure there are some in the area. If they're in the
way, they'll block the signal (about 10dB per "average" tree).
>I've already got a weather station mounted on an steel antenna pole
>thats lag-bolted to the 2x12 near the apex using 2 of those bent steel
>legs. I think it was the same RCA badged tv-antenna mounting brackets
>as in the following kit.
> http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/rcavh120x.html
Retch. That's even more flimsy than the Radio Shack flavor. The
problem is lack of vertical support. Also no adjustments.
>Because of the way the legs are bent, there is considerable flex.
That's an understatement. I used a cousin of this abomination to do a
temporary 24dBi dish mount to a large pipe. Of course, during the
week the wind decided to blow about 50knts. The mount literally
twisted loose from the wind load on the antenna. Dish mounts have to
be very rigid. You would do better with a satellite DBS dish mount.
http://www.fab-corp.com/home.php?cat=277
or maybe a replacement for your roof peak mount:
http://www.glenmartin.com/catalog/page14.html
>I
>have no doubt that I could mount it within a few degrees of correct
>and then just gently bend it until it was perfect. Of course that is
>what worries me a bit too.
If you can bend the mount, then it's not going to stay put.
>I was actually going to use a lightweight 15dbi yagi for the laptop
>antenna. Its only 18" long and weighs 3oz. I figured the weight and
>size were ideal for laptop use.
> http://www.mfjenterprises.com/produc...rodid=MFJ-1800
I don't like yagi's for 2.4GHz. Too expensive per dB of gain. Also
too narrow a radiation angle and they get huge for higher gains.
Double the length for only 3dB more gain. However, 15dBi for $30 is
rather cheap. Still, methinks a similar gain panel would be better.
How about 14dBi for $30?
http://www.fab-corp.com/product.php?...cat=255&page=1
>Sounds like I should probably just use the 4ft pipe attached to my
>brackets.
Something like that. It really depends on the size, weight, and wind
load of the antenna. Anything over about 10ft will require guy wires
(yet another complication).
Search Google for "wireless antenna mast".
>Thanks again for the great info.
Drivel: Of course you could do something interesting like:
http://www.boschaero.com/tower.htm
The movie clip at:
http://www.boschaero.com/movies/towers.wmv (5.3MB)
is worth watching. Just an idea...
--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
(E-Mail Removed)
#
http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
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http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS