Re: Oh crap!

Harry Bloomfield <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
news:(E-Mail Removed):

> Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
>> Hi,
>
>> Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums. Any
>> tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace those
>> without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush with the
>> back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given that it
>> hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can sort it?
>
>> Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and undo
>> them in future, live and learn......
>
>> Thanks,
>
>> Peter.
>
> For the others, if they too are stuck...
>
> Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp
> then allowing it to cool.

FILTH!



--

P
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K
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W
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E
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What the fuck has all this car crap got to do with
uk.telecom.broadband

Adam

"Phil Kyle" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:fiar4h$8g2$(E-Mail Removed).. .
> Harry Bloomfield <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
> news:(E-Mail Removed):
>
>> Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
>>> Hi,
>>
>>> Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums. Any
>>> tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace those
>>> without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush with the
>>> back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given that it
>>> hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can sort it?
>>
>>> Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and undo
>>> them in future, live and learn......
>>
>>> Thanks,
>>
>>> Peter.
>>
>> For the others, if they too are stuck...
>>
>> Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp
>> then allowing it to cool.
>
> FILTH!

Holy shit! He's been playing with Neil and Craig and Chrith!

"Dylan35" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:Sa6dnfZTg-(E-Mail Removed)...
> What the fuck has all this car crap got to do with
> uk.telecom.broadband
>
> Adam
>

It's got fuck all to do with Surrey either, Adam. Abuse reprot sent.

"Jim Way" <light@under_bushel.eu> wrote in
news:NUf2j.76863$(E-Mail Removed):

>
> "Phil Kyle" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:fiar4h$8g2$(E-Mail Removed).. .
>> Harry Bloomfield <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
>> news:(E-Mail Removed):
>>
>>> Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
>>>> Hi,
>>>
>>>> Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums.
>>>> Any tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace
>>>> those without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush
>>>> with the back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given
>>>> that it hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can
>>>> sort it?
>>>
>>>> Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and
>>>> undo them in future, live and learn......
>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>> Peter.
>>>
>>> For the others, if they too are stuck...
>>>
>>> Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp
>>> then allowing it to cool.
>>
>> FILTH!
>
> Holy shit! He's been playing with Neil and Craig and Chrith!
>
>
>

Thar she blows!
--

P
h
i
l

K
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W
o
z

E
r
e

"Phil Kyle" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:fiar4h$8g2$(E-Mail Removed).. .
> Harry Bloomfield <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
> news:(E-Mail Removed):
>
>> Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
>>> Hi,
>>
>>> Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums. Any
>>> tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace those
>>> without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush with the
>>> back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given that it
>>> hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can sort it?
>>
>>> Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and undo
>>> them in future, live and learn......
>>
>>> Thanks,
>>
>>> Peter.
>>
>> For the others, if they too are stuck...
>>
>> Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp
>> then allowing it to cool.
>
> FILTH!

snip.
The trouble is that these were probably overtight in the first place.
They seat on a taper and just a little over hand tight will give a good
seal.

You can get extracors for broken screws. These are used after you drill a
hole in the screw. They have a rough screw type cutting edge, (like a tap),
but with the opposite direction thread. As you screw them into the hole you
drilled they are turning in the opposite direction to the thread you are
attempting to remove so tend to extract the original threaded screw.
I.e., original screw thread tightens by turning clockwise: New thread is
going in anti-clockwise. It is also advisable to use some heat on the old
screw first and then to let it go cold., (heat expands the original screw
and makes it tighter but when it cools it helps break the grip of the
threads.
--
Auld Bob Peffers,
Kelty,
Fife,
Scotland, (UK).

"Robert Peffers" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
> "Phil Kyle" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:fiar4h$8g2$(E-Mail Removed).. .
>> Harry Bloomfield <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
>> news:(E-Mail Removed):
>>
>>> Peter Spikings wrote on 24/11/2007 :
>>>> Hi,
>>>
>>>> Just sheared off the bleed nipple on one of the Ka's rear drums. Any
>>>> tips on how to get the rest of it out (assuming you can replace those
>>>> without replacing other bits too!!!)? The remainder is flush with the
>>>> back of the drum and there's no leakage of fluid. Given that it
>>>> hasn't budged I assume it's still safe to drive until I can sort it?
>>>
>>>> Guess I'll spray some penetrating oil on those before I try and undo
>>>> them in future, live and learn......
>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>> Peter.
>>>
>>> For the others, if they too are stuck...
>>>
>>> Try getting just the tip of the nipple good and hot with a blow lamp
>>> then allowing it to cool.
>>
>> FILTH!
>
> snip.
> The trouble is that these were probably overtight in the first place.
> They seat on a taper and just a little over hand tight will give a good
> seal.

So you are talking of hand jobs, eh?

> You can get extracors for broken screws.

Is this a reference to coitus interruptus?

> These are used after you drill a hole in the screw. They have a rough
> screw type cutting edge, (like a tap), but with the opposite direction
> thread. As you screw them into the hole

"SCREW THEM INTO THE HOLE" !!!!!!

Much more FILTH!

> you drilled they are turning in the opposite direction to the thread you
> are attempting to remove so tend to extract the original threaded screw.
> I.e., original screw thread tightens by turning clockwise: New thread is
> going in anti-clockwise. It is also advisable to use some heat on the old
> screw first and then to let it go cold., (heat expands the original screw
> and makes it tighter but when it cools it helps break the grip of the
> threads.

Is this some special heating sexual lubricant you are referring to? Neil &
Emma Barker would be very interested in this if it would also keep their
Gregg's Pies warm during their sessions.

Thank you for the information, Auld Bob Peffers. (Div 'ee ken Oor Wullie?)

In article <lCB2j.1687$(E-Mail Removed)>,
light@under_bushel.eu says...
...

--
thar's gold in them thar hills..

"BrianE" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) g...
> In article <lCB2j.1687$(E-Mail Removed)>,
> light@under_bushel.eu says...
> ..

Why do you keep posting "I" in Morse?

>
> --
> thar's gold in them thar hills..

Jim Way wrote:
> "BrianE" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:(E-Mail Removed) g...
>> In article <lCB2j.1687$(E-Mail Removed)>,
>> light@under_bushel.eu says...
>> ..
>
> Why do you keep posting "I" in Morse?
>
>>
>> --
>> thar's gold in them thar hills..

Their sig designator is broken, just one of the many differences built
in by design by Billy Gates...