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RadioShack Programmable Control Center and Timer.

 
 
R. Gregg Reed
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      07-02-2003, 04:50 PM
My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
then it won't come back on again.

We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?

The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.
 
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Just Me
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      07-02-2003, 05:19 PM
You also have cordless phones to contend with. Then again, it may just be
Radio Shack quality.
"R. Gregg Reed" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:Xns93AC828F72AD0reedgcetlinknet@206.127.4.11. ..
> My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
> replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
> you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
> a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> then it won't come back on again.
>
> We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?
>
> The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.



 
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Edwin Pawlowski
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Posts: n/a

 
      07-02-2003, 09:52 PM

"R. Gregg Reed" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message

> The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> then it won't come back on again.
>
> We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?


Could be. You can switch the modules to a different code, A, B, C, etc.
Give that a try.
Ed
(E-Mail Removed)
http://pages.cthome.net/edhome




 
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Don W.
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      07-02-2003, 10:49 PM
"R. Gregg Reed" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:Xns93AC828F72AD0reedgcetlinknet@206.127.4.11. ..
> My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
> replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
> you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
> a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> then it won't come back on again.
>
> We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?
>
> The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.


The signal it sends isn't 2.4 GHz (or even close!) The WISP would not be
causing the problem. I have a similar system in my home and it was
problematic when my electric truck was charging. A power line filter on the
truck power control unit solved the problem.

Find the source of the problem (something plugged into the power line) by
unplugging things one at a time. Then install the appropriate filter on the
offending device. Here are some filters:
http://www.smarthome.com/x10troubleshoot.html

Don W.


 
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John Grabowski
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      07-03-2003, 02:30 PM
I have spent a lot of time in commercial buildings and residences
troubleshooting this technology. Some people refer to it as X10 because BSR
was one of the first companies 20 or so years ago that developed it and
marketed it under the X10 name.

Now there are several manufacturers of these products including Leviton
(Decora Home Controls) and Advanced Control Technologies (A10). Radio Shack
also has their own version. Much of the technology is interchangeable.

After all that I have experienced, I am reluctant to recommend the use of
this equipment except as a last resort. I have seen modules work on one
day and the next day don't work, but the day after that work again. My
conclusion is that the equipment never works 100% of the time. 99% under
the best circumstances is what you should expect. I have had other
electrical contractors consult with me after they have installed this
technology in a building or residence because they were getting tired of all
the callbacks.

Electrical interference can be a big problem. Motors, computers, and
everything else connected to your power system can inhibit that signal
traveling across your existing circuits. Another problem that arises from
time to time is neighbors controlling each others lights from their home.

One contractor I know was really pushing the use of this technology and made
several sales and installations in the same neighborhoods. He particularly
would use the modules for outdoor lighting. Neighbors would talk to each
other and then call up this contractor to install the same set-up in their
home. I had cautioned this guy about the use of this technology based on my
experiences, but he figured that since the customers were asking for it, he
would give it to them. After several installations on the same street he
kept receiving callbacks. The customers were complaining that their lights
were going on and off at all different times of day and night. The
contractor did not pay much attention to the choice of address codes for
each residence when he did each installation. The neighbors all had the
same codes and were able to turn each others lights on and off. This is
especially true when each neighbor's power is from the same utility company
transformer. This contractor had to go back to each customer's house and
change the codes so that each house was different. It cost him a lot of
time and manpower to do this. Now he tells me that he cautions his
customers about the downside of this type of installation and only
recommends it when it is more cost effective.

The manufacturers produce amplifiers, couplers, controllers, signal strength
meters and other components to get a good signal and measure it at each
module location. Troubleshooting is a very time consuming process. You are
not working with wires that have become loose or broken although a loose
connection can affect performance also. You are fixing something that you
cannot see or feel. If you don't have the equipment to test the signal it
is difficult to see what the actual problem may be.

I couldn't say with certainty that the internet service provider across from
your location was causing a problem, but I would consider it a possibility.
Try contacting the manufacturer of your components for technical support.

I expect that this technology will be around for a long time as it is an
easy way to modernize an old house into a "Smart House". I also expect that
the manufacturers will continue to improve the functionality and reliability
of their systems. My recommendation for anyone considering this type of
installation is to plan carefully. Don't go around and replace every switch
and receptacle, but only the ones that you really want to be controlled from
a central or remote location or by computer. Also take into consideration
that it is not just a matter of replacing a switch or receptacle. You
should also install a coupling device across your phases in the electrical
panel. A big house or building should have an amplifier and a repeater.
Ideally the circuits used for these components should not have any other
equipment connected to them, but that would be difficult to achieve in a
retrofit installation.

I hope this information helps.


Good luck,

John Grabowski
http://www.mrelectrician.tv





"R. Gregg Reed" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:Xns93AC828F72AD0reedgcetlinknet@206.127.4.11. ..
> My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
> replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
> you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
> a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> then it won't come back on again.
>
> We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?
>
> The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.



 
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Mike Berger
Guest
Posts: n/a

 
      07-03-2003, 04:19 PM
Do you have a signal bridge between the two hot sides of the line?
Putting an X10 device on one 117v phase, with the transmitter on
the other, will definitely make operation unreliable unless you bridge
them properly.

"R. Gregg Reed" wrote:

> My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
> replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
> you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
> a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> then it won't come back on again.
>
> We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?
>
> The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.


 
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Henry
Guest
Posts: n/a

 
      07-03-2003, 10:19 PM
John,

Based on my experence with X-10, you are providing very good advise. I use
X-10 for non-critical applications such as turning on china cabinet lights
for six hours at sundown, or nightlights, etc.

I have found that surge suppressors are the biggest problem in blocking X-10
signals.

Henry

"John Grabowski" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:96XMa.8089$(E-Mail Removed) ...
> I have spent a lot of time in commercial buildings and residences
> troubleshooting this technology. Some people refer to it as X10 because

BSR
> was one of the first companies 20 or so years ago that developed it and
> marketed it under the X10 name.
>
> Now there are several manufacturers of these products including Leviton
> (Decora Home Controls) and Advanced Control Technologies (A10). Radio

Shack
> also has their own version. Much of the technology is interchangeable.
>
> After all that I have experienced, I am reluctant to recommend the use of
> this equipment except as a last resort. I have seen modules work on one
> day and the next day don't work, but the day after that work again. My
> conclusion is that the equipment never works 100% of the time. 99% under
> the best circumstances is what you should expect. I have had other
> electrical contractors consult with me after they have installed this
> technology in a building or residence because they were getting tired of

all
> the callbacks.
>
> Electrical interference can be a big problem. Motors, computers, and
> everything else connected to your power system can inhibit that signal
> traveling across your existing circuits. Another problem that arises from
> time to time is neighbors controlling each others lights from their home.
>
> One contractor I know was really pushing the use of this technology and

made
> several sales and installations in the same neighborhoods. He

particularly
> would use the modules for outdoor lighting. Neighbors would talk to each
> other and then call up this contractor to install the same set-up in their
> home. I had cautioned this guy about the use of this technology based on

my
> experiences, but he figured that since the customers were asking for it,

he
> would give it to them. After several installations on the same street he
> kept receiving callbacks. The customers were complaining that their

lights
> were going on and off at all different times of day and night. The
> contractor did not pay much attention to the choice of address codes for
> each residence when he did each installation. The neighbors all had the
> same codes and were able to turn each others lights on and off. This is
> especially true when each neighbor's power is from the same utility

company
> transformer. This contractor had to go back to each customer's house and
> change the codes so that each house was different. It cost him a lot of
> time and manpower to do this. Now he tells me that he cautions his
> customers about the downside of this type of installation and only
> recommends it when it is more cost effective.
>
> The manufacturers produce amplifiers, couplers, controllers, signal

strength
> meters and other components to get a good signal and measure it at each
> module location. Troubleshooting is a very time consuming process. You

are
> not working with wires that have become loose or broken although a loose
> connection can affect performance also. You are fixing something that you
> cannot see or feel. If you don't have the equipment to test the signal it
> is difficult to see what the actual problem may be.
>
> I couldn't say with certainty that the internet service provider across

from
> your location was causing a problem, but I would consider it a

possibility.
> Try contacting the manufacturer of your components for technical support.
>
> I expect that this technology will be around for a long time as it is an
> easy way to modernize an old house into a "Smart House". I also expect

that
> the manufacturers will continue to improve the functionality and

reliability
> of their systems. My recommendation for anyone considering this type of
> installation is to plan carefully. Don't go around and replace every

switch
> and receptacle, but only the ones that you really want to be controlled

from
> a central or remote location or by computer. Also take into consideration
> that it is not just a matter of replacing a switch or receptacle. You
> should also install a coupling device across your phases in the electrical
> panel. A big house or building should have an amplifier and a repeater.
> Ideally the circuits used for these components should not have any other
> equipment connected to them, but that would be difficult to achieve in a
> retrofit installation.
>
> I hope this information helps.
>
>
> Good luck,
>
> John Grabowski
> http://www.mrelectrician.tv
>
>
>
>
>
> "R. Gregg Reed" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
> news:Xns93AC828F72AD0reedgcetlinknet@206.127.4.11. ..
> > My landlord is having a problem with this thing. You're supposed to
> > replace all your outlets and wall switches with control modules, then
> > you can operate any electrical equipment in your house remotely or on
> > a schedule. The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
> > center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
> > the control modules. It works somewhat, but it screws some things up.
> > Like it will manually dim a light, until it goes all the way off, but
> > then it won't come back on again.
> >
> > We have an ISP across the street that broadcasts a wireless internet
> > signal at 2.4 ghz. Could that be causing problems?
> >
> > The model number of this device is 61-2470. Thanks.

>
>



 
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Gary Tait
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      07-04-2003, 12:22 AM
On Wed, 02 Jul 2003 21:52:15 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski" <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

> The manual is sketchy, but it looks like the control
>> center sends a 2.4 ghz signal through the house wires that operate
>> the control modules.


It's not. It sends 125Khz pulses just past the zero crossing of the AC
waveform.
 
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