how to put n-male ends on coaxal cable

does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please

thanks in advance


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On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:36:21 -0500, Shotta_tav
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in
<(E-Mail Removed)>:

>[SNIP]

Vveerryy ccaarreeffuullyy!

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Best regards, FAQ for Wireless Internet: <http://Wireless.wikia.com>
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On Feb 12, 8:00 pm, John Navas <spamfilt...@navasgroup.com> wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:36:21 -0500, Shotta_tav
> <Shotta_tav.34p...@no-mx.wirelessforums.org> wrote in
> <Shotta_tav.34p...@no-mx.wirelessforums.org>:
>
> >[SNIP]
>
> Vveerryy ccaarreeffuullyy!
>
> --
> Best regards, FAQ for Wireless Internet: <http://Wireless.wikia.com>
> John Navas FAQ for Wi-Fi: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi>
> Wi-Fi How To: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_HowTo>
> Fixes to Wi-Fi Problems: <http://wireless.wikia.com/wiki/Wi-Fi_Fixes>

Do replies here even get forwarded to that forum? And what is LLC
coax?

Shotta_tav <(E-Mail Removed)> hath wroth:

>does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
>on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please

Limited Liability Corporation? Look for the manufacturers name just
before the LLC. Also, see if you can find a coax cable number:
<http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=MIL-C-17-Coaxial>
Then, you can look at your N-male coax connect and see if it has a
manufactory and part number. Then, perhaps the instructions can be
found.

>thanks in advance

You might want to reconsider thanking me. Soldering or crimping N
connectors requires some practice. You're almost certain to ruin a
few until you get it right. If crimped, you'll need to buy a crimping
tool. If soldered, it's probably the wrong type of coax cable for
anything other than short length pigtails.

--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Shotta_tav wrote:
> does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
> on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please

Not sure of what kind of coax cable you are talking about, but
this might help, http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/cable_tools.php
for a connector crimp kit at top of the page. I keep one on each
of my truckss.

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> Shotta_tav <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote

>>does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
>>on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please

<snip>
>>thanks in advance
>
>
> You might want to reconsider thanking me. Soldering or crimping N
> connectors requires some practice. You're almost certain to ruin a
> few until you get it right. If crimped, you'll need to buy a crimping
> tool.
<snip>

Unless you are a jobber doing installations, you probably can't afford
the crimp tool; consider locating a firm or person in your area that
does installations and have your cable connectors crimped for a hopefully
small fee. Don't consider soldering; at these wavelengths you would
need to be quite proficient to get a useful result.

Michael

On Feb 12, 11:36 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> Shotta_tav <Shotta_tav.34p...@no-mx.wirelessforums.org> hath wroth:
>
> >does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
> >on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please
>
> Limited Liability Corporation? Look for the manufacturers name just
> before the LLC. Also, see if you can find a coax cable number:
> <http://www.awcwire.com/ProductSpec.aspx?id=MIL-C-17-Coaxial>
> Then, you can look at your N-male coax connect and see if it has a
> manufactory and part number. Then, perhaps the instructions can be
> found.
>
> >thanks in advance
>
> You might want to reconsider thanking me. Soldering or crimping N
> connectors requires some practice. You're almost certain to ruin a
> few until you get it right. If crimped, you'll need to buy a crimping
> tool. If soldered, it's probably the wrong type of coax cable for
> anything other than short length pigtails.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I've done compression fittings and crimp on. [The crimper ain't
cheap!] I find the commercially built cables to be superior if you can
find one that fits your needs. About 2 years ago I bought a bunch of
Cushcraft Ultralink cables for a veyr fair price on ebay. The 3 footer
cost less than the what I would pay for connectors. They are a bit
stiff.

msg <msg@_cybertheque.org_> hath wroth:

>Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>> Shotta_tav <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote
>
>>>does anyone knows where can i find tutorials or pictures on how to put
>>>on the ends on the llc coaxal cables..please
>
><snip>
>>>thanks in advance
>>
>>
>> You might want to reconsider thanking me. Soldering or crimping N
>> connectors requires some practice. You're almost certain to ruin a
>> few until you get it right. If crimped, you'll need to buy a crimping
>> tool.
><snip>

>Unless you are a jobber doing installations, you probably can't afford
>the crimp tool;

Cheapo crimpers are adequate (if properly used).
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Misc/slides/crimpers.html>
<http://www.fab-corp.com/home.php?cat=281>
About $40/ea from numerous online sources. The HT-336G and HT-336R
will suffice for LMR-400 and smaller, including the common RG sizes.
LMR-600 and the larger sizes user more expensive tools, but match the
sizes of common electrical hex crimpers.

My most common screwup are dealing with the subtle differences between
the various grades of LMR-400. For example, rubberized (ultra-flex)
and plastic jacket (ultra-stiff) LMR-400 cable are slightly different
outside diameters, which require different connectors.

>consider locating a firm or person in your area that
>does installations and have your cable connectors crimped for a hopefully
>small fee.

Small fee? The N connectors cost me about $9/ea. It takes about 10
minutes per crimp, plus about 30 minutes finding all the junk needed
in the truck, dragging it into the office, getting setup, doing the
crimp, cleaning up the mess, throwing everything back into the truck,
and testing the result on a sweep generator and TDR. At $75/hr plus
the cost of replacing the overpriced razor blades in the stripper,
that's about $80 per cable (two connectors). You're better off buying
the crimpers.

Drivel: I loan my tools to the local hams for their projects. I know
it's risky, but the entertainment value of watching them struggle with
the connectors is worth the risk.

>Don't consider soldering; at these wavelengths you would
>need to be quite proficient to get a useful result.

Like crimping soldering takes practice and is easily mastered after
destroying the requisite amount of equipment. However, soldering is
not the problem. It's the UG-21b/u N connector:
<http://www.alliedelec.com/search/ProductDetail.asp?SKU=713-3311>
left over from WWII that is the problem. There are a few solder type
replacements, that work much better than this antique nightmare. It's
also made to works with RG-8/u type cables, which are very lossy at
2.4GHz and should only be used for short pigtails.

$24 for an antique N connector?

>Michael



--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

(E-Mail Removed) hath wroth:

>I've done compression fittings and crimp on. [The crimper ain't
>cheap!]

<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Misc/slides/crimpers.html>
About $40/ea all over the net.
The one for LMR-600 is about $80. After "losing" a $350 AMP
Certi-crimp tool, my policy on such tools is NBC (Nothing But Cheap).

>I find the commercially built cables to be superior if you can
>find one that fits your needs.

Yeah, right. The only failures I've had were with commercially built
cables. That function is usually outsourced to a high skool kid in a
garage borrowing his fathers tools. I've seen an amazing number of
creative stripping and crimping efforts from "commerical" cable
vendors, all of them hidden under opaque black shrink tube. I can
usually spot the problems with a TDR and sweep generator, but after a
few disasters, I test everything. Incidentally, I bought the tools
not to make my own cables, but to repair the crap I was getting from
my suppliers.

>About 2 years ago I bought a bunch of
>Cushcraft Ultralink cables for a veyr fair price on ebay. The 3 footer
>cost less than the what I would pay for connectors. They are a bit
>stiff.

I've also done quite well buying such things on eBay. However, it's
the exotic cable combinations (i.e. pigtails) and repair jobs that
drive the need for a crimper. Interestingly, the most common cable I
have to make is a simple LMR-400 extension, with N connectors on both
ends, but that has to be fed through a 1/2" hole in the wall. Same
with LMR-400 shoved through packed PVC conduit. There's no way to
build the cable in advance as the connectors are bigger than the hole
or won't go through the conduit. So, it has to be built on site.

Now, if I can only remember to slide on the shrink tube BEFORE
crimping the connector...

--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Feb 13, 11:00 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> m...@sushi.com hath wroth:
>
> >I've done compression fittings and crimp on. [The crimper ain't
> >cheap!]
>
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Misc/slides/crimpers.html>
> About $40/ea all over the net.
> The one for LMR-600 is about $80. After "losing" a $350 AMP
> Certi-crimp tool, my policy on such tools is NBC (Nothing But Cheap).
>
> >I find the commercially built cables to be superior if you can
> >find one that fits your needs.
>
> Yeah, right. The only failures I've had were with commercially built
> cables. That function is usually outsourced to a high skool kid in a
> garage borrowing his fathers tools. I've seen an amazing number of
> creative stripping and crimping efforts from "commerical" cable
> vendors, all of them hidden under opaque black shrink tube. I can
> usually spot the problems with a TDR and sweep generator, but after a
> few disasters, I test everything. Incidentally, I bought the tools
> not to make my own cables, but to repair the crap I was getting from
> my suppliers.
>
> >About 2 years ago I bought a bunch of
> >Cushcraft Ultralink cables for a veyr fair price on ebay. The 3 footer
> >cost less than the what I would pay for connectors. They are a bit
> >stiff.
>
> I've also done quite well buying such things on eBay. However, it's
> the exotic cable combinations (i.e. pigtails) and repair jobs that
> drive the need for a crimper. Interestingly, the most common cable I
> have to make is a simple LMR-400 extension, with N connectors on both
> ends, but that has to be fed through a 1/2" hole in the wall. Same
> with LMR-400 shoved through packed PVC conduit. There's no way to
> build the cable in advance as the connectors are bigger than the hole
> or won't go through the conduit. So, it has to be built on site.
>
> Now, if I can only remember to slide on the shrink tube BEFORE
> crimping the connector...
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I think I paid $60 for the crimper at Fry's, but it has
interchangeable die (if that is the right word).

My problem is the connector being pulled off the cable. In some ways,
I thing the UHF connector that requires soldering is more reliable. A
crappy connector mind you, but what is soldered doesn't fall off.

Where do you get extra crimp rings?