Power supply for Linksys Wireless Router

Its a WRt54G v3.1 wireless router.

Got it at an auction, sans the power supply.

Can anyone confirm what the supply rating is? 5V, 12V. amps?

I have plenty of wall warts, but don't know which is the right one.

Much obliged for any help.

Thanks,

John

According to Linksys, 12 VDC, 0.5 amp

John wrote:
> Its a WRt54G v3.1 wireless router.
>
> Got it at an auction, sans the power supply.
>
> Can anyone confirm what the supply rating is? 5V, 12V. amps?
>
> I have plenty of wall warts, but don't know which is the right one.
>
> Much obliged for any help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John

John wrote:
> Its a WRt54G v3.1 wireless router.
>
> Got it at an auction, sans the power supply.
>
> Can anyone confirm what the supply rating is? 5V, 12V. amps?
>
> I have plenty of wall warts, but don't know which is the right one.
>
> Much obliged for any help.
>
> Thanks,
>
> John
My version 2 has a 12VDC 1000ma (1A)

On Fri, 4 Apr 2008 12:52:47 -0700 (PDT), John <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>Its a WRt54G v3.1 wireless router.

Good router. I suggest you install DD-WRT v24 RC6.2 firmware:
<http://www.dd-wrt.com>
Here's my WRT54G v3 in my palatial office:
<https://office.learnbydestroying.com:8080/>
The low uptime is because I unplugged it to measure the power plug.

If your v3 acts dead, don't panic. Setup a computah with a static IP
address of 192.168.1.11. Punch and hold the reset button on the
WRT54G for at least 30 seconds. Wait nother 30 seconds for it to
reload the settings. Then unplug the power.

Now start pinging the router with:
ping -t 192.168.1.1
The -t means ping continuously. When you plug the power back into the
WRT54G, you should see ping returns after about 15 seconds. If you
get ping returns, then the router is alive and only needs a new flash.
Find the "de-brick" routine, using TFTP, and you should have a working
router when thru.

>Got it at an auction, sans the power supply.
>Can anyone confirm what the supply rating is? 5V, 12V. amps?
>I have plenty of wall warts, but don't know which is the right one.
>Much obliged for any help.

My WRT54G V3 has a 12V 1000ma power supply. The actual current drain
is about 400-500ma. The connector looks like a 5.5mm x 2.5mm plug.
However, I'm guessing from my pocket ruler as I don't have my drill
index handy to verify the center hole size.

Incidentally, some (not all) of the WRT54G models have wide range
switching regulators inside. These can run on anything from about
4VDC to perhaps 18VDC. This is a similar BEFW11S4 running on 4V from
my bench supply on my messy desk:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/low-volt.html>
I think anything from v2 thru v4 inclusive have the good switcher
(including your v3). However, I really screwed up with the v1.1,
where only some boards will work, while others will smoke the
regulator. Those are made to run on 5VDC. With v1.0 and v1.1, use a
5V 2A power supply. No clue on v5 thru v8 as I haven't looked inside
or tinkered with them.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 (E-Mail Removed)
# http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Much obliged to everyone for your help. I am sure I have more than a
few PSs laying around that can do the job.

Especially thanks for the info on upgrading and how to work around
the anomalies.

Looking forward to get this all set up.

Thanks a lot,

John

On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 18:01:54 -0700 (PDT), John <(E-Mail Removed)>
wrote:

>Especially thanks for the info on upgrading and how to work around
>the anomalies.

Just a minor addition. I keep finding WRT54G/GS routers in thrift
shops and garage sales. I think I've bought something like 5 of them
so far. I also find them at the municipal dump. The situation is
always similar. Either the 12V power supply overheats and dies, or
they tried to flash the firmware which "bricks" the router. Instead
to trying the easy to find recovery procedures, they just toss the
router, but keep the wall wart (power supply). I get the router,
which acts dead. I re-flash the firmware, and it's back to working.

Incidentally, the most common way to "brick" the router is due to
impatience. Apparently, the actual flash loading of the firmware
ocurrs AFTER the upload. However, most flash loaders (TFTP) and the
web based interface, will claim that the flash is done well before
it's done loading. When you flash the router, and it says it's done,
do NOTHING. Walk away, get a cup of tea, read a magazine, but don't
touch the keyboard for at least 1-2 minutes. On the really old
versions (v1, v1.1) it can take perhaps 3 minutes. Patience is a good
thing.

--
Jeff Liebermann (E-Mail Removed)
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558