Lmr-400 Crimping pliers

I am interested in getting some crimping pliers for LMR-400 cable. The
cheapest I could find in New Zealand are $55 + GST and shipping.
I am thinking of this Crimp Kit that includes crimpers for Lmr-400 from
hyperlinktech. 'Crimp Tools and Cable Strippers'
(http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/cable_tools.php)
Is anyone in New Zealand thinking of ordering from them soon so I can
piggy back on their order?
Is there a better place to get them from?
Thanks
Lyndon


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On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 04:35:33 -0400, Lyndon
<(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>I am interested in getting some crimping pliers for LMR-400 cable. The
>cheapest I could find in New Zealand are $55 + GST and shipping.
>I am thinking of this Crimp Kit that includes crimpers for Lmr-400 from
>hyperlinktech. 'Crimp Tools and Cable Strippers'
>(http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/cable_tools.php)
>Is anyone in New Zealand thinking of ordering from them soon so I can
>piggy back on their order?
>Is there a better place to get them from?

I don't know about the source, but what you're looking for is an
HT-336k (yellow handles) from TCC(???). Search Google for HT-336K and
you'll find lots of vendors. I think I paid $35 plus shipping from
some long forgotten vendor.

From Australia:
<http://au.wifi-link.com/product.php?action=product&class1_id=220&class2_id =221&class3_id=224&product_id=754>
Note that you can usually buy one frame, and a bunch of replacement
dies (for different sizes) and save some money. I don't do this
mostly because I always manage to lose the attaching screws.

If you're going to be doing lots of LMR-400 crunching, be sure to get
lots of crimp connectors. I prefer the ones from RF Industries
(mostly because they're cheap).

For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing
tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and
prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the
teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this
method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 (E-Mail Removed)
# http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

"Jeff Liebermann"
|
| For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing
| tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and
| prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the
| teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this
| method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed.
|


I've always (30 years+) used shrink tubing and silicon compound. this off
shore in heavy salt spary on oil rigs. When necessary to removed simply
score with a box knife and heat with a propane torch and the protective
'stuff' comes right off' The task can be done one handed as I've done the
deed high up on oil rigs.

On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 18:36:35 -0400, "NotMe" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>"Jeff Liebermann"
>|
>| For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing
>| tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and
>| prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the
>| teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this
>| method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed.

>I've always (30 years+) used shrink tubing and silicon compound. this off
>shore in heavy salt spary on oil rigs. When necessary to removed simply
>score with a box knife and heat with a propane torch and the protective
>'stuff' comes right off' The task can be done one handed as I've done the
>deed high up on oil rigs.

That's just as good, if not better, for waterproofing. I found out
the hard way that the problem is not to shed water, but to prevent
capillary action from sucking the water into the connector. Just
shrink tube or tape over a connector is not good enough, especially if
the connector is knurled. The silicon grease and PTFE tape both act
as a conformal water seal while the tape or shrink tube simply holds
the seal in place. The interface is air tight, so there's no danger
of capillary action.

I don't have 30 years experience with using the PTFE method. I
invented it about 10 years ago and have used it in perhaps 15
installations. (I don't do tower work any more). None are in a salt
spray environment.

Most of the "professional" installs I run into use 3M cold shrink,
which is rather expensive, stiff, and difficult to remove. Some have
a sticky interior. The worst installs use rubber sealing putty, which
waterproofs well, but also cracks when exposed to sunlight, and makes
a huge mess when removed.

I hadn't thought of scoring and heating to remove the shrink tube.
Great idea. Thanks.


--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 (E-Mail Removed)
# http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

"Jeff Liebermann" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed)...
| On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 18:36:35 -0400, "NotMe" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
|
| >"Jeff Liebermann"
| >|
| >| For outdoor waterproofing, be sure to get some 1" wide PTFE plumbing
| >| tape. Wrap everything in the teflon tape to keep out the water and
| >| prevent capillary action from sucking in water. Then embalm the
| >| teflon tape with Scotch 66 electrical tape. One nice thing about this
| >| method is that the connector looks like new when the wrap is removed.
|
| >I've always (30 years+) used shrink tubing and silicon compound. this
off
| >shore in heavy salt spary on oil rigs. When necessary to removed simply
| >score with a box knife and heat with a propane torch and the protective
| >'stuff' comes right off' The task can be done one handed as I've done
the
| >deed high up on oil rigs.
|
| That's just as good, if not better, for waterproofing. I found out
| the hard way that the problem is not to shed water, but to prevent
| capillary action from sucking the water into the connector. Just
| shrink tube or tape over a connector is not good enough, especially if
| the connector is knurled. The silicon grease and PTFE tape both act
| as a conformal water seal while the tape or shrink tube simply holds
| the seal in place. The interface is air tight, so there's no danger
| of capillary action.
|
| I don't have 30 years experience with using the PTFE method. I
| invented it about 10 years ago and have used it in perhaps 15
| installations. (I don't do tower work any more). None are in a salt
| spray environment.
|
| Most of the "professional" installs I run into use 3M cold shrink,
| which is rather expensive, stiff, and difficult to remove. Some have
| a sticky interior. The worst installs use rubber sealing putty, which
| waterproofs well, but also cracks when exposed to sunlight, and makes
| a huge mess when removed.
|
| I hadn't thought of scoring and heating to remove the shrink tube.
| Great idea. Thanks.

Wicking is the reason for the silicone sealant.

BTW many of these were with aluminum coax and aluminum connectors.

I've use the prepared cold shrink but find that the scoring and heat
treatment works fine regardless.

On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 19:59:49 -0400, "NotMe" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>Wicking is the reason for the silicone sealant.
>
>BTW many of these were with aluminum coax and aluminum connectors.

Gaaaak. I thought the acetic acid in the silicon goo attacks
aluminum.
<http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/APR95/0111.html>
I've never had a problem, but there's enough anecdotal evidence around
to make me suspicious.

>I've use the prepared cold shrink but find that the scoring and heat
>treatment works fine regardless.

I obtained a pile of cold shrink sleeves from the local power company
that were perfect for N connectors and heliax. However, they had some
sticky goo on the insides, that made removal rather challenging. I had
to peel it off the connectors. I switched to non-sticky-goo cold
shrink, and have lived happily ever after.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558 (E-Mail Removed)
# http://802.11junk.com (E-Mail Removed)
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> On Fri, 6 Jul 2007 19:59:49 -0400, "NotMe" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> Wicking is the reason for the silicone sealant.
>>
>> BTW many of these were with aluminum coax and aluminum connectors.
>
> Gaaaak. I thought the acetic acid in the silicon goo attacks
> aluminum.


There are various silicone greases, gels and RTV materials that can be
used. Only one is not appropriate for use on copper or aluminum. The
issue is with one flavor of RTV silicone. There are two curing methods
for RTV. One is peroxide cure which produces acetic acid from the curing
reaction. The other is alcohol cure. The stuff found in big box stores
is peroxide cure.


> <http://astro.umsystem.edu/atm/ARCHIVES/APR95/0111.html>
> I've never had a problem, but there's enough anecdotal evidence around
> to make me suspicious.
>
>> I've use the prepared cold shrink but find that the scoring and heat
>> treatment works fine regardless.
>
> I obtained a pile of cold shrink sleeves from the local power company
> that were perfect for N connectors and heliax. However, they had some
> sticky goo on the insides, that made removal rather challenging. I had
> to peel it off the connectors. I switched to non-sticky-goo cold
> shrink, and have lived happily ever after.
>

On Jul 6, 3:35 am, Lyndon <Lyndon.2ta...@no-mx.wirelessforums.org>
wrote:
> I am interested in getting some crimping pliers for LMR-400 cable. The
....
> Is there a better place to get them from?

I saw them for $20 usd at this site, but have no idea about the
vendor. Looks like they have a presence in Australia.

http://www.wifi-link.com/product.php...product_id=754