Installing Network Cable

I presently have an adslnation filtered faceplate on the BT socket in
one bedroom and have my router plugged in to that and my PC connects
wirelessly to it ...I have a cordless base phone plugged in to it as
well and a couple other cordless phones elsewhere around my flat . I'm
not all that impressed with wireless and was intending installing Cat
5 cable ,while some boards are still up.
I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?

Stuart

(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
> made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
> I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
> are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
> BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?

Sort of. Don't forget that the patch leads you buy from shops will be
stranded - that needs different connectors to the solid core stuff which is
usually used for structured cabling. I'd recommend the solid core if you
can get some - it should make terminating it easier.

Twisted pair ethernet is a star topology, so if your network looks like
this:

Router ---------- box 1 -------- box 2

you'll have to run cables like this:

Router ---------- box 1
+--------------------------- box 2

which will take up two network ports on the router. A neater job would be
to put a double socket box next to the router and two patch cables from
there.

Bear in mind that it might work, but it's harder to make it work at high
frequencies (especially gigabit). Make sure you check and test all pairs
for connectivity - you don't want to discover in a few years time that you
forgot to wire some.

There's plenty of guides on the web... have a search.

Theo

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:13:45 UTC, Theo Markettos
<theom+(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
> > I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
> > made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
> > I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
> > are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
> > BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?
>
> Sort of. Don't forget that the patch leads you buy from shops will be
> stranded - that needs different connectors to the solid core stuff which is
> usually used for structured cabling. I'd recommend the solid core if you
> can get some - it should make terminating it easier.
>
> Twisted pair ethernet is a star topology, so if your network looks like
> this:

He hasn't actually made it very clear, but he implies he's connecting
this from the *BT socket*; i.e., he's just doing twisted pair extensions
for the phone line.
--
Bob Eager
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

On 28 Jul 2008 12:13:45 +0100 (BST), Theo Markettos
<theom+(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>> I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
>> made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
>> I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
>> are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
>> BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?
>
>Sort of. Don't forget that the patch leads you buy from shops will be
>stranded - that needs different connectors to the solid core stuff which is
>usually used for structured cabling. I'd recommend the solid core if you
>can get some - it should make terminating it easier.
>
>Twisted pair ethernet is a star topology, so if your network looks like
>this:
>
>Router ---------- box 1 -------- box 2
>
>you'll have to run cables like this:
>
>Router ---------- box 1
> +--------------------------- box 2
>
>which will take up two network ports on the router. A neater job would be
>to put a double socket box next to the router and two patch cables from
>there.
>
>Bear in mind that it might work, but it's harder to make it work at high
>frequencies (especially gigabit). Make sure you check and test all pairs
>for connectivity - you don't want to discover in a few years time that you
>forgot to wire some.
>
>There's plenty of guides on the web... have a search.
>
>Theo

Thx for that Theo. I have seen this stuff from adslnation
http://www.adslnation.com/phpapps/ca...roducts_id=127

Would it do .It is solid core .

The BT socket is in one room and the computer will be in another room
across a hall so I want all cables as far as poss to be under the
floor .

I have had a look on T'Internet but it's a bit confusing what I need
to do

On 28 Jul 2008 11:52:43 GMT, "Bob Eager" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 11:13:45 UTC, Theo Markettos
><theom+(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>
>> (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>> > I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
>> > made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
>> > I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
>> > are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
>> > BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?
>>
>> Sort of. Don't forget that the patch leads you buy from shops will be
>> stranded - that needs different connectors to the solid core stuff which is
>> usually used for structured cabling. I'd recommend the solid core if you
>> can get some - it should make terminating it easier.
>>
>> Twisted pair ethernet is a star topology, so if your network looks like
>> this:
>
>He hasn't actually made it very clear, but he implies he's connecting
>this from the *BT socket*; i.e., he's just doing twisted pair extensions
>for the phone line.

Sorry if I wan't clear the first time but hopefully this will help.
The Bt socket with filtered faceplate is just inside the back
bedroom(1) window and a cordless phone ( base) is connected to that
and the rest of the phones are cordless so I have no other phone
sockets fitted . At present the router plugs in to the filtered
faceplate and the computer in the other bedroom (2) across the hall
connects wirelessly

What I want to do is have the computer(s) connected by wire ( Cat5?)
with sockets in the bedroom (2) and also the Living room should I
want to move the computer in there . I don't want cables anywhere
visible other than just beside the computer so what I need to know is
do I connect one Cat5 cable to the first socket and then on to the
second or do I need to have two sepeate cables,one to each of the
rooms . tia.

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:20:47 UTC, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

> Sorry if I wan't clear the first time but hopefully this will help.
> The Bt socket with filtered faceplate is just inside the back
> bedroom(1) window and a cordless phone ( base) is connected to that
> and the rest of the phones are cordless so I have no other phone
> sockets fitted . At present the router plugs in to the filtered
> faceplate and the computer in the other bedroom (2) across the hall
> connects wirelessly
>
> What I want to do is have the computer(s) connected by wire ( Cat5?)
> with sockets in the bedroom (2) and also the Living room should I
> want to move the computer in there . I don't want cables anywhere
> visible other than just beside the computer so what I need to know is
> do I connect one Cat5 cable to the first socket and then on to the
> second or do I need to have two sepeate cables,one to each of the
> rooms . tia.

OK, so you seem to want to leave the router plugged in to the master
socket where it is. And then have two sockets, in different rooms,
connected to the router?

In that case, you must have two separate cables, one to each socket. And
each must plug into a separate socket on the router. If the router only
has one socket, you either need a new router or a small network
'switch'.
--
Bob Eager
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

On 28 Jul 2008 12:33:23 GMT, "Bob Eager" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:20:47 UTC, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>
>> Sorry if I wan't clear the first time but hopefully this will help.
>> The Bt socket with filtered faceplate is just inside the back
>> bedroom(1) window and a cordless phone ( base) is connected to that
>> and the rest of the phones are cordless so I have no other phone
>> sockets fitted . At present the router plugs in to the filtered
>> faceplate and the computer in the other bedroom (2) across the hall
>> connects wirelessly
>>
>> What I want to do is have the computer(s) connected by wire ( Cat5?)
>> with sockets in the bedroom (2) and also the Living room should I
>> want to move the computer in there . I don't want cables anywhere
>> visible other than just beside the computer so what I need to know is
>> do I connect one Cat5 cable to the first socket and then on to the
>> second or do I need to have two sepeate cables,one to each of the
>> rooms . tia.
>
>OK, so you seem to want to leave the router plugged in to the master
>socket where it is. And then have two sockets, in different rooms,
>connected to the router?
>
>In that case, you must have two separate cables, one to each socket. And
>each must plug into a separate socket on the router. If the router only
>has one socket, you either need a new router or a small network
>'switch'.

Yup.That's it Bob .The router has several outlets so I can use it . I
was hoping for a neater solution at the router end to avoid the cables
TO the bedroom/living room sockets showing but I guess if I'm carefull
I can minimise that .Thx for your help

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:06:41 GMT, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

>
>> Would it do .It is solid core .
>
>Most of the RJ45 plugs are for stranded core CAT5 patch
>leads, and you need a special tool to crimp them. The
>pinning of stranded CAT5 patch leads is not 1 to 1 and
>]there is a learning curve of knackered plugs.
>I bought twin CAR5 faceplates and surface back boxes,
>used solid CAT5, they are IDC using the standard Krone,
>or plastic, telephone wiring, punch down tool.
>Then it is just off the shelf ready made CAT 5 patch
>leads to the router at one end and PC(s) at the other.
>Old and new PC's because crap Vista 64bit hasn't
>drivers foe some peripherals, and many legacy
>programs have 32bit install stubs, so won't install
>on Vista 64bit.
>A tip if using solid CAT5 and IDC, get the smallest
>TyWraps and use then to anchor the CAT5 to a
>convenient (on mine) plastic loop. This stops the
>CAT5 pulling back out of the IDC while you do the
>rest. It's a bit cramped but the faceplates are
>colour coded for A and B end. Think about how
>you are going to continuity test before you start,
>then if it says "no network connection" you are
>well prepared.

Thx for that .I've had a look at www.comms-express.com and they seem
to have everything I'd need cable, single and double faceplates and
boxes although the cable is in rather larger quantities than I need
but s'pose I could punt it on again ..I already have a Krone punch
down tool

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 15:48:09 +0100, "Graham" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:

>
>
><(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
>news:(E-Mail Removed).. .
>> On 28 Jul 2008 12:13:45 +0100 (BST), Theo Markettos
>> <theom+(E-Mail Removed)> wrote:
>>
>>>(E-Mail Removed) wrote:
>>>> I'm assuming that it's basically a case of getting enough cable( or a
>>>> made up length and removing the plug(s) ) and enough Cat 5 sockets (
>>>> I'm only thinking of one in bedroom and other in living room as these
>>>> are only likely places I'll have a computer) and connecting from the
>>>> BT socket to the first box then on to the second and bobs your uncle ?
>>>
>>>Sort of. Don't forget that the patch leads you buy from shops will be
>>>stranded - that needs different connectors to the solid core stuff which
>>>is
>>>usually used for structured cabling. I'd recommend the solid core if you
>>>can get some - it should make terminating it easier.
>>>
>>>Twisted pair ethernet is a star topology, so if your network looks like
>>>this:
>>>
>>>Router ---------- box 1 -------- box 2
>>>
>>>you'll have to run cables like this:
>>>
>>>Router ---------- box 1
>>> +--------------------------- box 2
>>>
>>>which will take up two network ports on the router. A neater job would be
>>>to put a double socket box next to the router and two patch cables from
>>>there.
>>>
>>>Bear in mind that it might work, but it's harder to make it work at high
>>>frequencies (especially gigabit). Make sure you check and test all pairs
>>>for connectivity - you don't want to discover in a few years time that you
>>>forgot to wire some.
>>>
>>>There's plenty of guides on the web... have a search.
>>>
>>>Theo
>>
>> Thx for that Theo. I have seen this stuff from adslnation
>> http://www.adslnation.com/phpapps/ca...roducts_id=127
>>
>> Would it do .It is solid core .
>>
>> The BT socket is in one room and the computer will be in another room
>> across a hall so I want all cables as far as poss to be under the
>> floor .
>>
>> I have had a look on T'Internet but it's a bit confusing what I need
>> to do
>
>
>No not that stuff, you need CAT5e cable. Use solid core if
>you intend to terminate them with wall plates, or stranded
>core if you just want to crimp RJ45 plugs on the ends.
>I would suggest you obtain long ready made up patch-cables
>and hide them as best you can, then you wont need any
>special tools or skills.
>
>You can't just daisy-chain CAT5 like you could the older
>10base2 co-ax, but as this picture I took for evidence shows,
>there are some so-called cable firms who think you can!
>http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/infoweb/rj45.jpg

Thx for that .Looks messy in that box .:-)

On Mon, 28 Jul 2008 12:54:01 UTC, (E-Mail Removed) wrote:

> Yup.That's it Bob .The router has several outlets so I can use it . I
> was hoping for a neater solution at the router end to avoid the cables
> TO the bedroom/living room sockets showing but I guess if I'm carefull
> I can minimise that .Thx for your help

A couple of other points....

1) You need real category 5 (preferably 5e) cable for this. There are
two sorts; stranded (flexible) and solid core. The latter is usually
used for fixed wiring. If you use that, you need to have the right plug
on it to fit the router, and most of those plugs are meant for stranded
wire. You'll get a bad connection if you use those.

2) I'd suggest you get a wall socket for the router ends of your
installed cables. Then use a pair of short flexible patch cables from
there to the router, thereby neatly handling the transition between
cable types, as well as avoiding having to crimp any RJ45 plugs.

3) There's a way you could cheat and use a single cable. There are FOUR
pairs in the cable, and you need only two for each socket. So, you
install a socket at the router end, and run cable to a socket in the
first room. You then install a second socket next to that, not connected
to the first in any way, and run cable from that to another socket in
the second room. Like this:

router X----------------------X1 X2-----------------------X3

where X1 and X2 are physically adjacent.
Then you get a couple of RJ45 economisers, like this:


http://cpc.farnell.com/CS13200/compu...s0?sku=unbrand
ed-adf

Connect one to X1, with a patch lead from one of its sockets to the PC
in that room. Connect the other socket on it, via a short patch lead, to
X2. Connect the other to X, with two patch leads from its sockets to two
separate router sockets.
Now, you'll have more connections this way, and each introduces a bit of
loss. I strongly doubt you'll notice any difference in network
performance; there are the same number of connections on any network
that uses a patch panel anyway.
--
Bob Eager
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org