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Balun for Sector

 
 
Knight
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      09-21-2008, 12:43 PM
Hey guys,

Was wondering what is the smallest coax someone can use to make a
Balun for this Sector antenna.
http://pe2er.nl/wifisector/
Reason is the RG-58 is so short and hard to bend'
Can you use a smaller diameter coax and still have this antena work?
Thanks guys
Pete
 
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DTC
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      09-21-2008, 02:20 PM
Knight wrote:
> Reason is the RG-58 is so short and hard to bend'


Time Microwave LMR-100


 
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Knight
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      09-21-2008, 06:30 PM
On Sep 21, 10:20*am, DTC <DTC_no_s...@example.com> wrote:
> Knight wrote:
> > Reason is the RG-58 is so short and hard to bend'

>
> Time Microwave LMR-100


Jeff not sure what RG-316 is, but is it small like LMR-100 like DTC
says?

Now that would be nice if I can that!
What would be the length to use if in fact I can use LMR-100?

Thanks guys
Pete
 
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Knight
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      09-22-2008, 01:47 AM
On Sep 21, 3:37*pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 11:30:58 -0700 (PDT), Knight
>
> <petelar...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >On Sep 21, 10:20*am, DTC <DTC_no_s...@example.com> wrote:
> >> Knight wrote:
> >> > Reason is the RG-58 is so short and hard to bend'

>
> >> Time Microwave LMR-100

>
> >Jeff not sure what RG-316 is, * but is it small like LMR-100 like DTC
> >says?

>
> Both LMR-100 and RG-316/u are about 0.100" in diameter.
> LMR-100 is stiffer and does not bend easily. *RG-316/u does not have a
> foil shield, and therefore bends much easier. *Either will suffice.
>
> <http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/34986-coax-cable-rg316-u-50-ohm-9316...>
> See photo of RG-316/u on bottom of page.
>
> A suitable alternative would be RG-188/u which is 0.110" diameter but
> has a tape wound PTFE outer jacked instead of FEP. *
>
> > Now that would be nice if I can that!
> > What would be the length to use if in fact I can use LMR-100?

>
> The velocity factor of LMR-100 is 0.67.
> One wavelength at 2.44 GHz (mid band) is 12.3 cm in free space.
> The shield strip length (not the cut length) is:
> * *length = 0.67 * 12.3cm / 2 = 4.12cm
> See the diagram for how the balun is built.
>
> Incidentally, I've now built about 6 assorted AMOS/Franklin antennas
> including some really weird constructs. *They all work just fine,
> although the higher gain versions required using a sweep generator to
> accurately adjust the center frequency.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann * * je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558





Excellent news Jeff!
Thank you.
If you look at my sector here http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...45(Medium).JPG
You'll notice that the copper tubing is soldered to the "N" female
connector underneith and also to the main board.

I saw diagrams how to solder the shielding together at the Balun but
since I'm soldered to the connector AND
the backplane then would it be safe to say that I can then solder the
Balun shielding straight
to the copper tubing?

I also changed the design of the biquad. What do you think now?
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...61(Medium).JPG
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...459cropped.jpg
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...59(Medium).JPG

I really appreciate and respect your input sir'
Thank You
Pete
 
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Knight
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      09-22-2008, 09:50 PM
On Sep 22, 12:04*am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 18:47:13 -0700 (PDT), Knight
>
> <petelar...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >> Incidentally, I've now built about 6 assorted AMOS/Franklin antennas
> >> including some really weird constructs. *They all work just fine,
> >> although the higher gain versions required using a sweep generator to
> >> accurately adjust the center frequency.

>
> More links on AMOS and Franklin antennas from my messy bookmark
> collection:http://yu1aw.ba-karlsruhe.de/ANT.htm...nl/wifisector/
>
> >If you look at my sector here *http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...45(Medium).JPG
> >You'll notice that the copper tubing is soldered to the "N" female
> >connector underneith and also to the main board.

>
> Looks about right. *What type of coax is that shoved into the copper
> tube? *It kinda looks like aluminum foil outer shield, which won't
> work because it can't be soldered. *You don't really need the shield
> on the coax as the copper tube provides that function.


The coax is LMR-400 with outer coating and braid removed. To much
hassle to remove the foil
so I left it on, makes a tighter fit anyway. But since the tubing is
soldered to the connector
AND the reflector then can I just solder the Balun shield/braid to the
copper tubing?


>
> Also, that's a Radio Shock soldering iron which is grossly
> underpowered for soldering large "heat sink" type PCB's, connectors,
> and coax cables. *My guess(tm) it's 35w at best. *You need something
> like a 60watt or higher iron, with thermostat control at 850F, and a
> wide chisel tip. *The soldering looks like the results of trying to
> solder the new and disgusting lead-free solder at too low a
> temperature. *Use a hot iron, flux if necessary, and work fast.


Have you been reading my mind? I've been pondering for days now which
iron to get from this site here...
http://www.action-electronics.com/solderingirons.htm
My God there are so many to choose from though!
What do you like for this kind of work?

The iron in the photo is a Sears 45 W. It just about almost does it
so I
was thinking a nice 60 Watt should be fine, do you?
>
> >I saw diagrams how to solder the shielding together at the Balun but
> >since I'm soldered to the connector AND
> >the backplane then would it be safe to say that I can then solder the
> >Balun shielding straight
> >to the copper tubing?

>
> Yep. *It's all one big solid ground (shield) around the center coax.
> The trick is to keep the shield end points of the balun fairly close
> together. *Everything else can be somewhat creative. *Use the photo
> at:
> <http://pe2er.nl/wifisector/>
> for a guide. *Note that the center coax cable has no shield or shield
> braid inside the copper tube.
>
> >I also changed the design of the biquad. What do you think now?
> >http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...61(Medium).JPG

>
> Check the dimensions of the PCB reflector. *It doesn't look quite
> right. * Hard to tell from this small a photo.



Yeh the reflector is ok. It's 123mm X 123mm

>
> >http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...459cropped.jpg

>
> Clever idea, but un-necessary. *The only thing that's really critical
> on the biquad is the *LENGTH* of the loop on each side. *You can be
> very creative with the shape, but not the length. *The length is
> measured from where the two loops hit each other plus any length added
> from exposed center conductor and shield conductors. *The center pin
> connection is correct, but you've effectively added a tiny amount of
> length to the ground side. *It's probably not critical as the antenna
> is fairly broadband, but it will tend to lower the optimum center
> frequency slightly. *You can shorten both loops to compensate, but I
> would just shorten the ground extension and solder the two loops to
> ground slightly lower on the copper tube. *Yeah, I know it doesn't
> look as aesthetically perfect that way, but it should work slightly
> better.
>
> Note that it's not super critical and will probably work as you built
> it. *There were a bunch of construction articles on biquads that
> totally dispensed with the copper tube coax cable extension and
> replaced them with a thin wire. *I originally declared this to be
> technically disgusting and suggested that it be done correctly. *I
> then modeled the antenna and found that it still had all of the usual
> +8dBi gain, but that the VSWR was considerably higher. *That will
> create some losses, but is not totally fatal. *So, even built wrong,
> it will still work.
>
> The right way:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Biquad/>
>
> The wrong way:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/biquad-junk/>
>
> Also, the soldering in the closeup is atrocious but not unexpected
> considering the new lead-free solder and the cold soldering iron.
> Wiggle the wires and the solder connection will probably break. *Try
> to make it look smooth and shiny. *Note that mixing solder types will
> result in a guaranteed dull and brittle connection. *Don't do it.


I pull real good on the connections before I sell! They're on there
good
but I know what you mean about being nice and shiny. Better iron
will that for sure. Help me out with a good selection on a decent
iron
if you have a minute.
And what about solder? Any recomendations?

>
> >http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...59(Medium).JPG

>
> What are you using for insulators at the ends? *It kinda looks like a
> dark color, which might be carbon filled nylon (anti-static). *Those
> will work, but you really want something that is a good RF insulator,
> such as PTFE or coax dielectric. *Nylon is hygroscopic (absorbs
> moisture) and will cause problems if used outdoors.



The insulators are plastic tubing. Not sure what kind but feels like
tubing
you would use for your ice maker in your freezer.
Twist ties coming up from bottom.



>
> >I really appreciate and respect your input sir'

>
> Easy on the "sir" thing. *It might make me more arrogant, if that's
> possible.



Ha Ha ok Dude! LOL


Pete
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann * * je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558


 
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Knight
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      09-23-2008, 04:34 AM
On Sep 22, 7:21*pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 14:50:56 -0700 (PDT), Knight
>
> <petelar...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >The coax is LMR-400 with outer coating and braid removed. *To much
> >hassle to remove the foil
> >so I left it on, makes a tighter fit anyway. *But since the tubing is
> >soldered to the connector
> >AND the reflector then can I just solder the Balun shield/braid to the
> >copper tubing?

>
> Yep. *If the foil is a tight fit, it's good enough. *Soldering the
> balun to the copper tube is just fine. *I'm a bit worried about tiny
> sparks from arcing or electrolysis between the aluminum and copper,
> but I don't think it will be a problem.


I'll have to see how it goes but like you say I think it will be all
right too'
>
> >Have you been reading my mind?

>
> Yep. *My crystal ball shows everything. *I can read everything (except
> the documentation).
>
> >I've been pondering for days now which
> >iron to get from this site here...
> >http://www.action-electronics.com/solderingirons.htm
> >My God there are so many to choose from though!
> >What do you like for this kind of work?

>
> What you really should do is try to find some ecologically disgusting
> 60/40 or better yet, 63/37 rosin core leaded solder. *When I realized
> that the supply is going to dry up, I stocked up with about 10 lbs of
> the stuff. *Where it's mandatory is for repairing circuit boards that
> have been soldered with leaded solder. *Using lead-free on that just
> makes a big mess.


How can you tell if the board was soldered with leaded or unleaded?
My kids are always asking me to mod their game controllers and things
but I never know what kind of solder to use!
I'm also going to get that real skinny 12W iron just for these type of
things too!
What's the skinniest diameter solder I should get for this type of
work?
Soldering USB adapters also'
>
> I'm a big fan of Weller soldering irons. *Unfortunately, they're also
> the most expensive. *I have a lifetime supply of parts and pieces
> thanks to a failed dot.com so I don't plan to do any shopping. *That
> means I don't have a clue what's available today.
>
> > The iron in the photo is a Sears 45 W. *It just about almost does it
> >so I
> >was thinking a nice 60 Watt should be fine, do you?

>
> Don't look at the power dissipation. *If you must, my guess is you'll
> need at least 70 watts to get up to 850F. *That's only for irons that
> don't have a thermostatically controlled tip. *What you want is 750F
> for leaded, and 850F for lead free, preferably adjustable. *Plan on
> buying an assortment of Weller tips at about $6/ea.


Well that page that had all the Weller irons on it has a 60W and then
an 80W.
Would you say try the 80 instead of the 60W?


*
>
> This is what I have a few of:
> <http://www.action-electronics.com/wewtcpt.htm>
> Way too expensive. *Works fine, but uses a mechanical thermostat that
> requires chronic rebuilding. *Not recommended unless you have lots of
> spare parts.


WOW now they are sweet! I wouldn't know how to work on the
thermostat! LOL
>
> I was thinking something more like this cheapo:
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310084368976>
> <http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300259180266>
> I've seen these as low as $15 at ham radio swap meets. *One of my
> friends bought a pile and hasn't complained (much) about them. *It
> doesn't get quite hot enough, but I think it will work for everything
> except what you're now doing (large copper heat sinks). *For the big
> copper stuff, get a propane torch with a big fat copper soldering tip
> attachment. *That's what I use for the big stuff.


They look ok but are they toys do you think? I wonder how long they
will last!

>
> >Yeh the reflector is ok. It's 123mm X 123mm

>
> I do mine this way:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/antennas/Biquad/slides/biqad-geom.html>


I saw that way also! I may try one of them too.
>
> >And what about solder? *Any recomendations?

>
> Yeah. *Get some leaded 63/37 or 60/40 solder. *If you can't get rosin
> core, get solid core and use some liquid rosin flux. *Wash with your
> favorite toxic chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent and cleaner. *(paint
> thinner works well).
>
> >The insulators are plastic tubing. *Not sure what kind but feels like
> >tubing
> >you would use for your ice maker in your freezer.
> >Twist ties coming up from bottom.

>
> It's probably ok but I can't tell for sure. *Put a few in the
> microwave oven. *If they melt, they're no good. *If they just sit
> there, don't worry about it. *Oh yeah, put a glass of water in the
> microwave oven when you do this to give the magnetron a load.


Yeh I was thinking that today about the microwave. I'll let ya know
how that comes out but
I think they will be ok, we'll see'

Thanks again Jeff! Talk at ya tomorrow after work.

Pete
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
> # 831-336-2558 * * * * * *je...@comix.santa-cruz.ca.us
> #http://802.11junk.com* * * * * * * je...@cruzio.com
> #http://www.LearnByDestroying.com* * * * * * * AE6KS


 
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Knight
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      09-23-2008, 08:50 PM
On Sep 23, 1:16*am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:34:28 -0700 (PDT), Knight
>
> <petelar...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >How can you tell if the board was soldered with leaded or unleaded?

>
> Two ways. *One is to look for the RoHS label on the board, which
> always indicates lead-free. *The other is to do a test soldering on a
> small area of the board using lead-free solder. *If it looks dull gray
> and not shiney, the board uses lead/tin solder.
>
> >I'm also going to get that real skinny 12W iron just for these type of
> >things too!

>
> Too low wattage. *You want it hot at 850F for lead-free. *Lots of heat
> and work fast. *That way you get good reflow, and a small heat
> affected zone.
>
> >What's the skinniest diameter solder I should get for this type of
> >work?

>
> I dunno. *I have all kinds of different diameters laying around. *I
> use them all randomly.
>
> >Well that page that had all the Weller irons on it has a 60W and then
> >an 80W.
> >Would you say try the 80 instead of the 60W?

>
> 60 watt is about right for lead-tin. *It will also work with lead-free
> but you'll need to take more time heating the joint. *80 watts is what
> methinks is right for both.
>
> >WOW now they are sweet! *I wouldn't know how to work on the
> >thermostat! *LOL

>
> Fixing the thermostat isn't the problem. *Cramming the mess back into
> the soldering iron handles is what generates the profanity.
>
> >They look ok but are they toys do you think? *I wonder how long they
> >will last!

>
> Oh swell....now you're expecting reliability? *At about $35, you're
> not going to get much of a quality product. *It's adequate, I've used
> them, and they work. *They're not the best, they don't have a LED
> display with the temperature, there's no desoldering attachment, and
> you can't install a wide range of SMT soldering/desoldering tips. *In
> other words, it's a basic soldering iron suitable for being used and
> abused. *If you want quality, be prepared to spend some real money.
> Look at Pace, Hakko, or other vendors of "soldering stations".
> <http://www.hakkousa.com/products.asp>
> <http://www.paceworldwide.com>
> Incidentally, I check the power of the typical soldering pencils from
> these vendors. *75 or 80 watts.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann * * je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D * *http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann * * AE6KS * *831-336-2558


Did we start talking about two different applications here because I
got confused.

For the Balun and 1/4' tubing you thinks the 80 W would be better
correct?

Did you also say the 12W isnb't good for the tiny work? USB adapters
and the kids
game controllers?

If I get a bigger iron for the tiny soldering then it's hard to find
tiny tips that fit it, is that correct?

Oh wait, did you then say 80W is right for both!
Both tiny and the copper tubing!?

Sorry buddy, just trying to learn more.
I'm pretty good at general soldering but I didn't realize the
different solders to use now!

Pete
 
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