Advice sought for installing a 2" WISP antenna in an existing 3.5"cut-off mast hole

Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?

OLD:
I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
(unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.

NEW:
I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.

IDEA:
The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
end.

COMPROMISE:
I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.

TWO QUESTIONS:
Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?

Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
but still allow easy removal for maintenance?

DETAILS:
Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
to service the antenna.

The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).

The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
83% (just ok).

It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.

I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
wobble & spin (short of digging a new hole & concreting it in) yet being
able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).

Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?

NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
primary goal.

All ideas welcome.

On Dec 18, 8:30*am, Frank Wilson <frankwil...@pleasedonotspam.com>
wrote:
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.
>
> COMPROMISE:
> I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
> with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
> associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.
>
> TWO QUESTIONS:
> Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
> pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?
>
> Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
> but still allow easy removal for maintenance?
>
> DETAILS:
> Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
> to service the antenna.
>
> The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
> galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
> ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
> pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
> a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
> threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
> the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).
>
> The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
> access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
> 55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
> sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
> 83% (just ok).
>
> It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.
>
> I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
> wobble & spin (short of digging a new hole & concreting it in) yet being
> able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
> ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).
>
> Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
> hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?
>
> NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
> primary goal.
>
> All ideas welcome.

Obtain a bit of pipe (longer than depth of your hole) that will slide
over your new antenna mast, (steel or substantial plastic).
Cover end with tape, place in existing hole and cement in the annular
space with a wet mix (and plasticiser if available), well pounded in.

Another thought. Before cementing in, insert your new pole and ensure
it is vertical and centralised as far as possible..

"Frank Wilson" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:jck8bl$3ia$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.

<stuff snipped>

Why not fill the existing hole with cement and while it's wet center a
smaller pipe that has the correct (smaller) diameter fitting at the top for
maintenance? No large thread pipe needed, just some cement. Better
structurally speaking than a series of reducers.

--
Bobby G.

"Frank Wilson" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:jck8bl$3ia$(E-Mail Removed)...
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.
>
> COMPROMISE:
> I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
> with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
> associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.
>
> TWO QUESTIONS:
> Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
> pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?
>
> Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
> but still allow easy removal for maintenance?
>
> DETAILS:
> Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
> to service the antenna.
>
> The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
> galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
> ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
> pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
> a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
> threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
> the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).
>
> The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
> access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
> 55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
> sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
> 83% (just ok).
>
> It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.
>
> I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
> wobble & spin (short of digging a new hole & concreting it in) yet being
> able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
> ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).
>
> Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
> hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?
>
> NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
> primary goal.
>
> All ideas welcome.

Put a clamp on the pipe about 5' off the ground
Attach to outriders at an angle that are set in the ground
These will give you rotational and vertical stability
By loosening the clamp, you can rotate the pipe to re-orient it as needed.

As to climbing up the pipe to service it, use climbing sticks like the ones
deer hunters use to go up to their stands
http://shop.sportsmansguide.com/net/...20stick&eMode=
Some climbing sticks kits can even be joined to multiply the height reached.

Frank Wilson wrote:
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete.
> I'm guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the
> surface (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or
> so) and in good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP
> 802.11 antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is
> rocky clay. I prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that
> area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches
> into the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down
> to 2 inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5
> inch OD pipe that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a
> reducer on that end.
>

Assuming you've found the 3.5" OD pipe, all you need is a way to attach your
2" mast. Threading with a reducer is one way, so the next step is find some
way to put threads on your 3.5" OD pipe.

1. Find an oil or water well supplier. They'll probably have some way to
thread the sucker.

2. Buy your own 3.5" pipe threading die (~$175.00).

On 12/18/2011 3:30 AM, Frank Wilson wrote:
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna& radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.
>
> COMPROMISE:
> I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
> with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
> associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.
>
> TWO QUESTIONS:
> Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
> pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?
>
> Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
> but still allow easy removal for maintenance?
>
> DETAILS:
> Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
> to service the antenna.
>
> The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
> galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
> ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
> pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
> a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
> threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
> the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).
>
> The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
> access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
> 55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
> sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
> 83% (just ok).
>
> It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.
>
> I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
> wobble& spin (short of digging a new hole& concreting it in) yet being
> able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
> ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).
>
> Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
> hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?
>
> NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
> primary goal.
>
> All ideas welcome.


Fix to the 2" OD final mast a pair of 2" ID/3.5" OD centering
spacers/"donuts" near bottom and top of the 30" submerged portion of the
final mast.

Insert final mast with spacers into the old 3.5" ID shaft. Easy in,
easy out for maintenance.

On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 08:30:46 +0000 (UTC), Frank Wilson wrote:

> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.
>
> COMPROMISE:
> I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
> with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
> associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.
>
> TWO QUESTIONS:
> Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
> pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?
>
> Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
> but still allow easy removal for maintenance?
>
> DETAILS:
> Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
> to service the antenna.
>
> The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
> galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
> ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
> pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
> a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
> threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
> the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).
>
> The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
> access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
> 55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
> sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
> 83% (just ok).
>
> It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.
>
> I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
> wobble & spin (short of digging a new hole & concreting it in) yet being
> able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
> ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).
>
> Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
> hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?
>
> NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
> primary goal.
>
> All ideas welcome.

Try looking in the Forums at this site.
http://www.satelliteguys.us/index.php
Look under Search for Antenna Mounting.

On Dec 18, 12:30*am, Frank Wilson <frankwil...@pleasedonotspam.com>
wrote:
> Any ideas for installing a new antenna mast into an old antenna hole?
>
> OLD:
> I have an old 3.5 inch ID steel tube sunk in 30 inches of concrete. I'm
> guessing this was an old satellite dish cut off flush with the surface
> (unfortunately). No threads but the steel is 1/4 thick (or so) and in
> good shape and it goes down to 30 inches in the concrete.
>
> NEW:
> I simply need an antenna mast of about 12 feet high for a new WISP 802.11
> antenna & radio setup. Winds can be high at times. Soil is rocky clay. I
> prefer NOT to have guy wires as the kids play in that area.
>
> IDEA:
> The best idea is to find a way to shove a 3.5 inch OD pipe 30 inches into
> the existing pipe and then thread successively smaller pipe down to 2
> inches for the final mast. But I can't find a source for 3.5 inch OD pipe
> that has threads on at least one end so that I can put a reducer on that
> end.
>
> COMPROMISE:
> I can easily find 2 inch and 1 1/2 inch threaded galvanized water pipe
> with reducer fittings and caps - but I can't find 3.5 inch water pipe and
> associated fittings for the bottom portion of the mast.
>
> TWO QUESTIONS:
> Q1: If I stick with the original idea, where would I get a 3.5 inch OD
> pipe that has threads that can hold a reducer to more available widths?
>
> Q2: If I go with what I have right now, how would YOU shore up the pipe
> but still allow easy removal for maintenance?
>
> DETAILS:
> Currently it's working but physically wobbling. I remove the entire mast
> to service the antenna.
>
> The mast is comprised of a five foot length of 2 inch ID threaded
> galvanized water pipe sitting 30 inches deep inside the existing 3.5 inch
> ID iron pipe cut flush at the concrete. This five foot length of water
> pipe sticks roughly 2 1/2 feet out of the ground where I then threaded on
> a reducer which couples easily to the 10 foot length of 1 1/2 inch ID
> threaded water pipe forming the bulk of the mast, and which is capped at
> the top (to prevent water from filling the pipe).
>
> The 14 dBi planar 2.4 Ghz antenna at top is roughly pointed at the WISP
> access point; the Bullet M2 radio tells me it has an ACK/Distance of
> 55/2.6 miles respectively (I'm not sure if that's important); this radio
> sees a signal strength of -56 dBm (pretty good); with a transmit CCQ of
> 83% (just ok).
>
> It's working - but it's not a permanent solution.
>
> I am stuck at HOW to fix the antenna in the ground so that it won't
> wobble & spin (short of digging a new hole & concreting it in) yet being
> able to service the antenna (I have ladders but not a 12 foot high step
> ladder - plus the ground is sloping so it's unsafe to ladder it).
>
> Do you have ideas how to affix the antenna mast into the old 3.5 inch ID
> hole while still being able to remove the entire mast for antenna service?
>
> NOTE: In the future I'd like to add a TV antenna but that's not the
> primary goal.
>
> All ideas welcome.



If the dimensions you give are accurate....

You could use 3" pipe (has a 3.5" OD) obtained from McMaster Carr.


You could could a full length insert (24" to 36") and then use a
coupling w/ a threaded reducing bushing.

OR

Buy a short piece of 3" SCH 80 pipe to make adapter donuts as
suggested by another poster.

check out

http://www.alcobrametals.com/page.ph...pipe-schedules
http://alcobrametals.com/page.php?page=pipeandtube

the dimensions given have tolerance on them and the various pipe sizes
& thicknesses might need some "machining" to get a proper fix.

You could wet anchor a 2" pipe (2-3/8" OD) into the existing hole
using a high strength setting compound.

Threaded pipe joints in bending situations make me nervous.

cheers
Bob

>
>
> If the dimensions you give are accurate....
>
> You could use 3" pipe (has a 3.5" OD) obtained from McMaster Carr.
>
>
> You could could a full length insert (24" to 36") and then use a
> coupling w/ a threaded reducing bushing.
>
> OR
>
> Buy a short piece of 3" SCH 80 pipe to make adapter donuts as
> suggested by another poster.
>
> check out
>
> http://www.alcobrametals.com/page.ph...pipe-schedules
> http://alcobrametals.com/page.php?page=pipeandtube
>
> the dimensions given have tolerance on them and the various pipe sizes
> & thicknesses might need some "machining" to get a proper fix.
>
> You could wet anchor a 2" pipe (2-3/8" OD) into the existing hole
> using a high strength setting compound.
>
> Threaded pipe joints in bending situations make me nervous.
>
> cheers
> Bob
>
>
>
Note whatever you use as "cement", it has to set in the winter. Well
unless the OP is from down under.

I run into installations in the boonies where it looks like stakes were
epoxied into crevices of rock. Any idea what kind of compounds are used
to do this? This is sort of the case where you don't know how to ask the
right question in google. In fact one spot had threaded pipe in the
rock, and I suspect they found a hole and just filled it to set the pipe
rather than dig into rock.