ADSL line advice (Part 2 Kraftee?)

About 18 months ago Kraftee (Least I think it was Kraftee) gave me some
great advice about ADSL line problems. I was installing broadband for a
friend who lived in an old farm house who's telecom wiring was a bit of a
disaster. His line kept dropping sync and the adsl light on the router was
flashing. Sometimes it was impossible to get connected. Every thing was fine
when using the main BT socket.

The solution at the time was to remove the cables from connections 3 and 4
on all sockets throughout the house. Seemingly only 2 and 5 are required and
3 IIRC only makes the bell ring on older phones. Have I got this correct
Kraftee? Btw there has been no problems with the line since. In my own house
I used to drop the connection at sme stage most nights. I disconnected 3 and
4 at the back on my main BT socket and the ext socket I use and basically
never drop the connection now.

I'm asking because if you read part one you'll see I have to get an
extension socket to work and I'm trying to get rid of any problems before
the router "eventually" arrives.

Thanks ... John

JC wrote:

> The solution at the time was to remove the cables from connections 3 and 4
> on all sockets throughout the house. Seemingly only 2 and 5 are required
> and 3 IIRC only makes the bell ring on older phones.

3 makes the bell ring on phones that need their ringer powering from
terminal 3. In general powered phones are less likely to need this and
international designs use just 2 wires but in any case if you have
microfilters on each phone they generate the ring signal again.

Phil

--
Testing SuSE Linux on a Sony laptop

JC wrote:

> About 18 months ago Kraftee (Least I think it was Kraftee) gave me some
> great advice about ADSL line problems. I was installing broadband for a
> friend who lived in an old farm house who's telecom wiring was a bit of a
> disaster. His line kept dropping sync and the adsl light on the router was
> flashing. Sometimes it was impossible to get connected. Every thing was fine
> when using the main BT socket.
>
> The solution at the time was to remove the cables from connections 3 and 4
> on all sockets throughout the house. Seemingly only 2 and 5 are required and
> 3 IIRC only makes the bell ring on older phones. Have I got this correct
> Kraftee? Btw there has been no problems with the line since. In my own house
> I used to drop the connection at sme stage most nights. I disconnected 3 and
> 4 at the back on my main BT socket and the ext socket I use and basically
> never drop the connection now.
>
> I'm asking because if you read part one you'll see I have to get an
> extension socket to work and I'm trying to get rid of any problems before
> the router "eventually" arrives.

Removing the bell connection did help me a bit when I was having problems.

Graham

Phil Thompson wrote:
> JC wrote:
>
>
>>The solution at the time was to remove the cables from connections 3 and 4
>>on all sockets throughout the house. Seemingly only 2 and 5 are required
>>and 3 IIRC only makes the bell ring on older phones.
>
>
> 3 makes the bell ring on phones that need their ringer powering from
> terminal 3. In general powered phones are less likely to need this and
> international designs use just 2 wires but in any case if you have
> microfilters on each phone they generate the ring signal again.
>
> Phil
>

Yes I think ALL proper BT approved phones require the ring (25Hz 80V)
signal to be derived on the third wire. This was done to avoid 'bell
tinkle' when old pulse dial phones were in the system but not wired the
old 'series' way.
With a new master socket, this signal is extracted from the line by a
capacitor in the master socket (BT side) and extended to all the other
phone sockets (which have no components just connections - hence called
'slave sockets')
If you remove the third wire (terminal 3 - usually orange/white) as
people suggest, that can improve your performance.
However be aware that some cheap ADSL filters do not contain the
necessary capacitor to derive the ring signal actually at the remote
phone socket.
I fell foul of this with cheap (£2.50ish) filters from CPC.
If you want to try this trick, you will have to use the (usually) ers
that come with the modem or get proper BT approved ones (Maplin about
£10:00)

Hope this helps

Mike

Eeyore wrote:
> JC wrote:
>
>> About 18 months ago Kraftee (Least I think it was Kraftee) gave me
>> some great advice about ADSL line problems. I was installing
>> broadband for a friend who lived in an old farm house who's telecom
>> wiring was a bit of a disaster. His line kept dropping sync and the
>> adsl light on the router was flashing. Sometimes it was impossible
>> to get connected. Every thing was fine when using the main BT socket.
>>
>> The solution at the time was to remove the cables from connections 3
>> and 4 on all sockets throughout the house. Seemingly only 2 and 5
>> are required and 3 IIRC only makes the bell ring on older phones.
>> Have I got this correct Kraftee? Btw there has been no problems with
>> the line since. In my own house I used to drop the connection at sme
>> stage most nights. I disconnected 3 and 4 at the back on my main BT
>> socket and the ext socket I use and basically never drop the
>> connection now.
>>
>> I'm asking because if you read part one you'll see I have to get an
>> extension socket to work and I'm trying to get rid of any problems
>> before the router "eventually" arrives.
>
> Removing the bell connection did help me a bit when I was having
> problems.
>
> Graham

Well there you go JC, you didn't need me at all did you...

You don't need to remove the wire from pin 4 as that isn't (well shouldn't
be) connected to anything but basically remove the bell wire & use decent
filters & you won't go far worng (but don't let my boss know ok, as that's
£65 of advice, believe it or not ;-) ).

Yep that's right if I give _any_ advise to an end user now I'm supposed to
charge for it. My responce is that it may not work so why am I suppose to
charge, still waiting for an answer to that one...

"kraftee" wrote in message

> You don't need to remove the wire from pin 4 as that isn't (well shouldn't
> be) connected to anything but basically remove the bell wire & use decent
> filters & you won't go far worng (but don't let my boss know ok, as that's
> £65 of advice, believe it or not ;-) ).

Heh, as it was a homer I'm sure you'd take half that for cash. Just mail me
your postal address ;o)

John

JC wrote:
> "kraftee" wrote in message
>
>> You don't need to remove the wire from pin 4 as that isn't (well
>> shouldn't be) connected to anything but basically remove the bell
>> wire & use decent filters & you won't go far worng (but don't let my
>> boss know ok, as that's £65 of advice, believe it or not ;-) ).
>
> Heh, as it was a homer I'm sure you'd take half that for cash. Just
> mail me your postal address ;o)
>
> John

Nah save it up for your next project...

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 14:00:14 -0000, "kraftee"
<kraftee@b&e-cottee.me.uk> wrote:

>My responce is that it may not work so why am I suppose to
>charge

perfectly standard procedure to charge for advice that may not turn
out to be correct - doctors, vets, solicitors, estate agents, etc etc.

Phil

Phil Thompson wrote:
> On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 14:00:14 -0000, "kraftee"
> <kraftee@b&e-cottee.me.uk> wrote:
>
>> My responce is that it may not work so why am I suppose to
>> charge
>
> perfectly standard procedure to charge for advice that may not turn
> out to be correct - doctors, vets, solicitors, estate agents, etc etc.
>

True buyt I try & be honest......unlike....

On Sat, 27 Jan 2007 22:14:04 -0000, "kraftee"
<kraftee@b&e-cottee.me.uk> wrote:

>True buyt I try & be honest

it's not really a case of honesty, it's a case of giving your best
opinion from the facts provided. If you do that you have done your
part of the deal, after all if someone calls a call centre at a
premium rate the advice may be no better than yours but they will have
paid to receive it.

Phil