2 Wrt54GL's wirelessly bridged antenna selection help

Thanks for all the previous help. I now have two wrt54gl routers running
ddwrt in wirless bridge mode. Everyhting seems to work. What I am now
wanting to do is put some bigger antennas on these routers to make a better
connection.

Just wondering what the major differences are if I go to a 2.4 GHz 24 dBi
High Performance Die Cast Reflector Grid
Wireless LAN Antenna - Model: HG2424G
http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/hg2424g.php

versus a 2.4 GHz 18 dBi Wireless LAN Heavy Duty Panel Antenna HyperGain®
HG2418P

http://www.hyperlinktech.com/web/hg2418p.php


How much performance do you loose to cable length?? The reason I ask is for
the one router in the office I have access to a window, but I need to go to
the roof for the antenna to be mounted and the distance is around 20-30ft.

Are there powered versions of antennas for around $60


Thanks in advance

BRyon

On Jul 3, 7:07 pm, "Bryon Friesen" <bryonfrie...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>What I am now
> wanting to do is put some bigger antennas on these routers to make a better
> connection.
>

What is your line of sight distance? You may not need heavy
artillery. 12- 14 dbi antennas or less may do you fine.


> Just wondering what the major differences are if I go to a 2.4 GHz 24 dBi
> versus a 2.4 GHz 18 dBi Wireless LAN Heavy Duty Panel Antenna HyperGain®
> HG2418P

As the gain goes up, the focus is narrower. It get tougher to aim and
amplifies stuff in it's path but also rejects off-path better... Not
having used a parabolic, I imagine it's like pointing a laser vs
pointing a spotlight with the panel antenna.


> How much performance do you loose to cable length??

For over 10 feet, make sure and use LMR 400. Hawking has a good price
on a 30' cable. 400 loses only .25db per meter.


The reason I ask is for
> the one router in the office I have access to a window, but I need to go to
> the roof for the antenna to be mounted and the distance is around 20-30ft.
>

You might consider trying one antenna on one end (the easy one) first,
depending on the distance.

Do you have a working bridge already using stock antennas in those
positions? That tells me that one 12-14 dbi antenna on one end might
take care of you.

> Are there powered versions of antennas for around $60

Powered antenna? Amps? Actually, Radio Labs does sell a rubber duck
antenna with a built-in amp for maybe $100.

But I doubt you need an amp.

Steve

Thanks for the responce seaweedsteve

I am expecting that the distance is clsoe to 500' apart, I just figured the
bigger the better for an antena. If both routers are line of sight of each
other in the windows of the building things work. As soon as I lower the
router in the house I loose signal, so I expect that the aluminum siding on
the house is not helping me. I thought about only using one antena but I
thought using two would guarntee me success. I will look into the length of
cable I will require, the Hawking stuff seems to be a decent price. The
price difference between the 14dbi and the 18 dbi was around 15 bucks so...
I thought might as well get the bigger one. So I will go with the
recommendation of a patch panel versus the reflector grid as I like the idea
of easier to
aim.

Thanks

Bryon

"seaweedsteve" <(E-Mail Removed)> wrote in message
news:(E-Mail Removed) ups.com...
On Jul 3, 7:07 pm, "Bryon Friesen" <bryonfrie...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>What I am now
> wanting to do is put some bigger antennas on these routers to make a
> better
> connection.
>

What is your line of sight distance? You may not need heavy
artillery. 12- 14 dbi antennas or less may do you fine.


> Just wondering what the major differences are if I go to a 2.4 GHz 24 dBi
> versus a 2.4 GHz 18 dBi Wireless LAN Heavy Duty Panel Antenna HyperGain®
> HG2418P

As the gain goes up, the focus is narrower. It get tougher to aim and
amplifies stuff in it's path but also rejects off-path better... Not
having used a parabolic, I imagine it's like pointing a laser vs
pointing a spotlight with the panel antenna.


> How much performance do you loose to cable length??

For over 10 feet, make sure and use LMR 400. Hawking has a good price
on a 30' cable. 400 loses only .25db per meter.


The reason I ask is for
> the one router in the office I have access to a window, but I need to go
> to
> the roof for the antenna to be mounted and the distance is around 20-30ft.
>

You might consider trying one antenna on one end (the easy one) first,
depending on the distance.

Do you have a working bridge already using stock antennas in those
positions? That tells me that one 12-14 dbi antenna on one end might
take care of you.

> Are there powered versions of antennas for around $60

Powered antenna? Amps? Actually, Radio Labs does sell a rubber duck
antenna with a built-in amp for maybe $100.

But I doubt you need an amp.

Steve

On Jul 8, 7:13 pm, "Bryon Friesen" <bryonfrie...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> I am expecting that the distance is clsoe to 500' apart, ...
> If both routers are line of sight of each
> other in the windows of the building things work.

Great. Then you should find success with almost any antenna
configuration as long as you have line of sight and don't lose too
much running coax.


>As soon as I lower the
> router in the house I loose signal, so I expect that the aluminum siding on
> the house is not helping me.

Right. So the number one priority is going to be keeping line of
sight. If you can't put the router at window height, then you will
need a coax for getting the antenna to the window - indoors or out.

It's unclear what your two positions are but it seems that one bridge
has line of sight right where you want to use it, so I'm going to
address the one that doesn't.

Next questions are:

1)is there a good way to mount an antenna at window height inside or
must you mount it outside? I don't understand the reason for going to
the roof if the window works. Maybe it's because you were focused on a
largish grid antenna?

2) how long does the coax for a window height antenna have to be to
reach the router ? If it's just 3-4 feet, then the pigtail on some
antennas may be ok.

I should mention at this point that putting the router outside in a
weatherproof box with a built-in panel antenna is another good
option. In that case, instead of running coax, you run an ethernet
cable with power (POE) or with a seperate power cord. Links if you
want them.

So,

3) Is the device working as a wired router also or just as a bridge/
AP? If it's got various ethernet cables going to it, then I'd lean
towards extending the antenna, indoors or out. If it's only got one,
then it's more efficient to extend the ethernet cable.


I thought about only using one antena but I
> thought using two would guarntee me success.

I think that if you have success now, then using an efficient antenna/
cable setup on one end will do the job. For internet. I'm learning
that in most cases, a 20 db + signal to noise with a medium speed
connection (12/18/24) is just fine and it doesn't pay to go for more.
If you are not streaming HD video, that is.

In some situations, the best thing to do is leave the omni on the AP
and let it serve a larger area. Then put your firepower on the client
adapters/bridge(s) in various places around it to gain distance as
needed.

In other cases (our system) it makes sense to put a directional
antenna on the AP where it's pointing to a cluster of clients and then
see if the clients will work with stock antennas or need more. We
have a 12 dbi panel with a 60 degree coverage pattern up on a pole and
connected by a 30' LMR 400 to the router/modem/power supply in an
equipment shed below. The antenna is pointing across the arroyo to a
cluster of houses. About 400-500 feet. In the two better house
locations, stock (laptop) antennas work fine. In the other two
houses, they need more antenna.

If you have time to test it, I still recommend one hi-gain antenna
efficiently placed with minimal cable loss.


Maybe you could explain more about the locations and their uses. Which
location is the AP and which is the bridge? How many pcs connect
where? Is there any chance that you will want the AP side to connect
to other devices besides the point to point bridge?

Steve